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lenght of hunting points?

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mullet:
You are better off to match your weight by total weight of arrow. That way you can match lighter heads with heavier shafts. Like Bob said shooting the shorter distances and self bows, weight forward and shot placement are more important. I've always found a shaft that would match up with as point.

M2A:
Thanks for the information Bob and Mullet. Much appreciated.
Mike 

gutpile:
I try to keep mine at 7/8 wide 2" long for stone.. most important is trued up.. and sharp.. gut

M2A:
Thanks for the input Gut!
Mike

Tracker0721:
Little late to the party but I’ll chime in. I go for an inch by 2-2 1/4 inches long which seems to make a good weight. You’ve gotta remember Ashby reports are for penetrating bone. The first rule is structural integrity which bone beats stone every time so we immediately accept that none of the rest matter. You have to accept that with stone we can only take the close, broadside, quartering away hopefully shot. And I hunt with literally everything, super modern to literal sticks and stones, I’m a numbers and math nerd though and a realist.

So a 2 to 1 gets me almost 80-90 grains with obsidian, I use pine pitch glue and sinew to hold the point and taper the glue down the point so that there’s no “shelf”. It adds another 15-20 grains.  I use ocean spray shoot shafts which are naturally tapered and help with FOC (which helps with stabilizing the arrow) and that combo I’ve hunted elk with. The natives probably didn’t realize the science behind what they used but they used what worked better and it ends up the science backs it up. Those “bird points” are great at penetrating and allow the use of smaller shafts like todays micro diameter arrows which are more forgiving, add penetration, buck the wind better, and all sorts of benefits. Also uses less precious resources(knappable stone!).

In conclusion, those middle 3 look like money!! Get em sharp, put them in the vitals and they’ll kill for ya.

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