Main Discussion Area > Bows

Salt & Pepper Bow/plenty of pics

<< < (5/9) > >>

Don W:
Impressive. I like all the details. It sounds like a lot of work went into both the design and execution. Is there a design decision in the different kinds of sinew, or was it just what you had?

BowEd:
Thanks Don....
Actually the design layout and alignment to floor tillering is'nt that difficult and faster than other designs IMO.Deciding how much stiff and how much bending area you want comes from making them.
I try to keep plenty of sinew around of different types.Any type of it will work for sinewing bows.I like to use sinew for performance reasons.Usually in 3 courses then.
It's the outside crown or layer that will do most of the work on a bow.Sinew can take an enormous amount more stretching compared to wood at a lot less width also.So crowning it down the center line on the limb as you apply it makes it work the most.

I'll describe my usual procedure.The bow is sized well prior to sinewing with multiple thin coats of hide glue till it's glassy smooth after partially drying.

Using a little thicker glue the first course is layed/pressed down lightly over the whole width of the limb using various lengths overlapping the ends close to 1.5".Let dry for a good week or two.

Lightly sand dried first course smooth.Apply a good sizing of hide glue for second course.Second course is layed the same way but narrower in from the edges of the limb overlapping again but not in the same places as the first layer.Let dry for a week or two again.

Lightly sand dried second course smooth again.Apply a good sizing of hide glue for third course.Third course is layed on narrower yet [usually only 3/4" wide or less by then] using the longest sinew I've got the full length of the working limb.Let the bow cure then.

You can comb these strands before applying to the bow or lay them as perfectly straight as you can.I usually lay them on 3 strands at a time avoiding any twisting of strands.It can look swelled up and like a mess at first after applying it but if you can get it to look nice and smooth just after applying,it will look very nice and smooth after drying.

Most peoples' first attempt at sinewing can look horrible.I'm no exception to that either.With experience you can get it looking very nice.

simk:
Thanx for posting Ed. This is a stunning bow with a stunning finish! Once again remarkable what wood can do under your hands!
cheers
 

BowEd:
Thanks simk...You do an excellent job of getting the best out of a wood bow yourself over there.With a little luck I might get to show a pick up box of logs of this winged elm in the future.I'm working on it.

It seems when ever a bow is shown of this type reflex that is,noone really asks how a person gets a string on one of these.A problem that took me a while in the beginning to make easier and more convenient.I'm sure there are other ways but this way has worked well for me.
I went to using a peg board.To me just a little more intense floor tillering stage.From there you can get the bend even,if necessary and get the exact length of string to use and then get it braced to see what you've got.
I don't mind sharing as it's something anyone can do.The bend will be more from the fades like this on the peg board and will change once a string is on pitting one limb against the other.More bend then into the outer part of the working limbs at brace.Just like any other bow.The string alignment can be checked good also then.At full draw the outers stay stiff and the bend shifts to the inner limbs.Where the real power is.This process takes me less work than long stringing a bow.

I like to keep the belly of the handle fade limb width and flat at this stage.Of course getting it locked into the first peg is always a revealing adventure.It's then I'm always amazed [besides while tillering it] as to what sinew can do and to see if my sinewing work was done correctly also.
From there it's a couple inches at a time letting it rest stretching an hour in between stages to a braced position of the tips.
This one took a just few scrapes with a cabinet scraper to get right.It's still a little stiffer in the right limb a bit.It's very sensitive throughout this process.So slow and steady.The string is ready to be put on this one.
Some question the stability on these.This one had no issues at first bracing.
I usually put the higher reflexed limb to the bottom on most bows but this one not.My decision was made that way because of the way it looked and felt in the hand at brace and drawing on it.The slight opposing propellers had the string slightly off to one side of the handle.It shoots the best that way too.

Zugul:
I'm a total newbie, but that bow looks scary to me! it seem very hard to string even if the poundage isn't that high... very well done btw, that's a magnificent bent stick!

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page