Main Discussion Area > Bows
Performance?
BowEd:
To back what Arvin said it seems to me the more I can get shorter working limbs wide enough to handle the strain and less wood where it's not needed for power the more efficient cleaner shooting bow I get.
It's a fine line to accomplish I might add.
This seems to oppose the thought of getting the full length of a working limb to do it's fair share of the work,but in reality the outer limbs are just shaped differently with less mass and still will share the load enough to relieve the inner limbs.
I would'nt say this without pulling a lot of shavings and making a lot of saw dust and testing.
I can only imagine yet the amount of wood and bows Badger went through to get where he's at.
bradsmith2010:
when you start shooting through a chronograph,, some things that work in theory,, kinda work,, but not as well as some would think,,thats a great example,, making the wood work where it needs to ,, not necessarily, all "evenly",,,but getting good performance from the bow,, or as you mentioned before, taking off mass where its not needed,,,
RyanY:
Ed, often that distribution of work and mass correlates to less working limb and therefore less limb vibration as well.
BowEd:
Yes...It's a win/win formula.
Jim Davis:
Jano, I am glad to find someone who knows the wheel (or the bend meter) was invented a long time ago! I made a dial bend meter a couple of decades ago and used it successfully. You are right that it is boring work!
After that period, I have made nothing but "pyramid" bows and find them exponentially easier to make and good performers. Cut the back profile, band saw to about 9/16" thick, belt sand and or scrape to even tiller and it's done. For a stronger bow, start wider. to reduce weight, narrow by the percent of change you want (that last works for any design).
Robert Elmer's writings are among the best. He was a very intelligent and careful man. I'd have been glad to have had him as my doctor.
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