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Trying boiled linseed oil finish

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GlisGlis:
I like to give the first hand with 2/3 blo and 1/3 turpentine ( i've read someone also add a little vinaigre for long term mold protection)
It help to absorb the oil into the wood
As hamish told you it is not very fast to dry and if you use too much without wiping off the excess it will form unpleasant sticky pellets

Pat B:
An old adage for oil finishes is...once a day for a week then once a week for a month then once a month for a year and finally once a year there after. This is probably for woodworking in general and not necessarily for bow building.

upthecreek:
Been using boiled linseed oil cut with turpentine for refinishing gun stock,finishing bows, and treating hoe, rake ,shovel handle and on and on. Mix 1:1 and keep some in a sealed ball jar. Get a mark on a stock or bow just rub a little of the mix on the spot. Quick repair and returns to nice satin finish. the repaired spot does not show. when applying finish to a new project i apply with a small high quality brush. Leave it rest 30 minutes then wipe the excess off with paper towel. The next day so the same. Put on as many costs as you want. I use three coats.

Pat B:
It seems the best way to apply an oil finish is like upthecreek said, let it sit 30 minutes and wipe off the excess. This is like the wipe down with 0000 steel wool on Tru-Oil,knocking down the high spots and filling in the low spots with each coat and wipe down.

Marc St Louis:
Linseed oil is not a very effective moisture barrier.  If you were to apply some wax over top of that it would seal the bow better

I have a finish I rarely use, mostly because it takes a long time to dry.  It's oil and pine resin, I don't know what type of oil it is.  It does produce a nice looking finish though.

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