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“Blade” molle short bows

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superdav95:
Hmm. Ok then.  The horn strips I have access to are only 1 1/2”-1 3/4” wide.  I’ll have to tweak my limb widths a bit or maybe find a way to do 2 identical strips on each limb to get my width.  Any thoughts on this is it possible?

bradsmith2010:
ok just guessing,, but 58 inch bow with 30 inch draw,,is gonna have some string angle issues,, right,,
it will probably shoot similar to any straight tip bow bow drawn to 30 inches,, a far as the bow holding up,,I have no idea,,
my guess is, that if you shoot it through a chrono graph as you tiller it out,, somewhere around 27 inches it gonna shoot hard and as you tiller it out longer, it may not shoot much harder,, or possibly fail,,
but like I said just guessing,,
enjoy,, and next time you will know,, like I said if you shoot it through a chrono as you tiller you will have a better idea what the best draw for that bow will be next time,,,

bownarra:
As I said you don't need any more than 1 1/4" for any draw weight. Going wider is simply going to lower efficiency. As Brad says your problem will be string angle making it uncomfortable. Short hornbows have recurves in one form or another a) to stress the horn sufficently and b) perhaps more importantly string angle.
A stacky bow is not comfortable to shoot nor are they very accurate due to any variation in drawlength storing quite different amount of energy.
Anyway it will be cool to see what you come up with.
Another tip is to remove the excess wood in the handle and levers before doing any centerline layout. Any potential tension in the wood releases as you work things like that down. it would be a shame for the tips to move out of alignment.

superdav95:

--- Quote from: bradsmith2010 on June 19, 2022, 01:45:40 pm ---ok just guessing,, but 58 inch bow with 30 inch draw,,is gonna have some string angle issues,, right,,
it will probably shoot similar to any straight tip bow bow drawn to 30 inches,, a far as the bow holding up,,I have no idea,,
my guess is, that if you shoot it through a chrono graph as you tiller it out,, somewhere around 27 inches it gonna shoot hard and as you tiller it out longer, it may not shoot much harder,, or possibly fail,,
but like I said just guessing,,
enjoy,, and next time you will know,, like I said if you shoot it through a chrono as you tiller you will have a better idea what the best draw for that bow will be next time,,,

Actually that’s a good point.   I’m gonna have to pay attention to my string top angle and aim for 60 degrees as many have suggested.  I built a bow a month or so ago out of bamboo that also was 58”ntn and got it to 30” draw but found that it’s fastest speed readings were at 29”.  My string angle on that bow was about 60degrees full draw at the tips.  It’s definitely gonna be something to watch for.  I like the idea of fine tune tillering as I speed test also.  Think I’ll try that!   Thanks

--- End quote ---

superdav95:
Got the third one roughed out today and on the form to dry a week or so with the others.  It was seasoned wood but letting it sit anyway.   Bownarra,  I did narrow up the handle on the one bow too.   I may steam bend a straight recurve at the transition of the blades to assist with string angle a bit.  It will be similar to my short bamboo bows siyahs angle.  Now the blades are straight inline with the limb tip.  I think that I will need to rethink the blades shape for now and focus on getting my angles steamed it and then perhaps do a laminated section of wood glued on after heat treatment and shaping are done to get my blades at that point.  The reason I think I’ll have to do it this way is the grain run out or exposed grain at the transition of the blades and limbs.  It will be much safer to steam bend in my angle there at one ring of wood.  I can use that opportunity to straighten out and twist then to the blades tips and limbs.  Each bow as it sits now has 9” of reflex on the forms.  I hope to gain a few more during the sinew stage.  I redid the form from the pics shown too.  I’ll update tomorrow.  I’m using ubolts at the ends to free up my clamps from heat damage from heat treat.  Thanks for watching. 

Cheers

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