Main Discussion Area > Bows
New bow started(again, 1/4/2022){ and again 8/10/22}
PEARL DRUMS:
I'm working on a lumpy yew Hill style self bow that I'm waiting to knock me in the head!
Pat B:
Don't forget the pics...the bow and your broken head. ;)
bradsmith2010:
I dont think you need to check the tiller out to 20,, put the sinew on without straining it at all,, that being said,,if you are more comfortable checking it to 20,, I think the only difference would be in my head,,, (-S
superdav95:
Brad. I am currently working on a relaxed Scythian style horn bow that I just placed my first sinew layer on. I did not brace this one or draw it out to 20” like I have done before. Instead I carefully measured thickness with calipers on both limbs to be as close as I can get them. I’ve done sinew backing on bows from fully shot in to just at brace height. What I’ve seem is that the less strain you can place on the core prior to sinew the better. That being said I do agree with Ed that it’s worthwhile doing some mild pre bending to sort out most if not all tillering issues prior to sinew. Going to 20” on a good clean piece of wood that’s been heat treated (white woods) or knot free defect free Osage or yew for example will save a lot of tweaking and time later and won’t hurt the wood core really if bend looks good. I’ve had good luck going to brace or just past it to end up with fast bows that recover well. Stressing the wood core is like using substandard wood as your core. Ok maybe not the same thing exactly but imagine you take a fully shot in bow that has settle in at it’s final draw weight and cast. It’s reached it equilibrium of stresses on both the belly and back. By adding sinew as a backing to such a bow you will more then likely see increased poundage and cast if the sinew was placed on properly allowed to cure and dry and not overly done with glue to weight it down. What I’m suggesting and I think Ed as well is that if you were to take the same bow PRIOR to being shot in and settled in with all the accompanying stresses of a fully shot in bow and then add your sinew you would have a better performing bow in my opinion and experience.
BowEd:
Correcto Dave....It makes a difference in the testing and hitting the draw weight dead nuts.Most of the detailed work is done before sinewing.
It's hard to convey all the details to someone unless they've done it themselves.If they are willing they can learn.
With a lot of reflex making sure tip alignment is correct is critical.
Removing lots of material from an over weight bow loses all the heat treatment.
That may not be critical using osage but with other woods it can be.It's part of the adventure of making bows.
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