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Tiller check please

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RyanY:
The bow is canted in the tiller tree so it’s not an accurate representation of how it will look when pulled in hand. Left limb is weaker based on how it’s sitting in the tree. Usually I’d recommend getting more inner limb bend, but at that length you’ll probably want a hair more inner limb stiffness for less mass movement along the whole limb to avoid hand shock.

Aksel:
I´d make the left limb bend a little bit more, judging from the photos. Also, ask someone to take a photograph when you draw the bow, or watch your reflection in a mirror. I often find that gives a better idea of how the bow bends in the hand rather on the tree. Risk is if you leave the inner half too stiff is that it might take on even more set, or hinge when you start shooting it later..

dogwood:
i think that inner limbs are bending less and the upper limb is a bit stiffer than bottom limb, so I should scrape that inner limbs. Is it right?

BowEd:
Looks ok to me for as long of a bow as it is.Dogwood is a very elastic denser type wood around here.Only made 1 bow from that wood but use it a lot for arrow shafts.Hard to find a piece of dogwood around here that thick and long for a bow.How does it shoot?

dogwood:
Well it is not very fast bow but it is pleasant to shoot due to it has low handshock.  I think that it is mainly because  it has a quite big crown and it is only one and half inch wide at the widest point and most important it has also took a lot of set, because I'm still not very good in tillering.  But I like dogwood as a bow wood because it is easy to work with and it is durable wood.

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