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Overweight tiller best approach?

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Badger:
George, you and I have gone around and around on this for a long time. All I can say is that if you are drawing some kind of connection between how far you are moving the string and measuring the draw weight then you are giving out very bad and wrong information. There is no connection between string movement and draw weight period. You measure the draw weight the same way you do on a braced bow, you simply look at where you are drawing it to and it makes very little difference how much slack you have in the string.

bradsmith2010:
could someone post a video on this process,,or at least some pics,,

George Tsoukalas:
I've only made a couple of hundred bows using that method.

This is just a method for determining  when the stave is ready for the short string...that is no more than 15# over final target weight.

That's all my method does.

Sorry you can't see that but it does work.

Jawge

BowEd:
20" draw test after brace has been the length that I go by for knowing what it will be @ 28".For the draw weight I usually want these days I need it to be 31 to 33 pounds to get a 45 to 48 pound bow @ 28".
There can be a variance of 6" of bow length and it is still very close to the same with moderately straight limbed bows with equal reflex.
Recurves are a different story.

George Tsoukalas:
I don't do videos.

There is info. on my site, however and in several articles I've written.

http://traditionalarchery101.com

But this not my first ballroom dance so you can be sure I've used this method on my bows to help me determine when the stave is ready to be strung..

Just trying  to help those just getting started from making the same mistakes I did.

How slack the string is not important. I've said that through out my bow making life and a couple of times above.

Jawge

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