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Overweight tiller best approach?
willie:
for instance. if you are at 24" with 50 # before you do a wood removal,
then after the scraping, you measure 50 # at 25".
then do you let it rest for a minute or two then see what weight you get at 25" on a second pull?
how much weight loss at 25" would tell you to do something different? and what would you do different?
simk:
i find Badgers method intersting as a theoretical mind game and I see the thought behind. but: isn't set inevitable to a certain degree? further: isn't the inevitable amount of set different from one piece of wood to the next one? So how can these uncertainties be implemented into the so called "no set method"? how do I distinguish between the inevitable set and set induced by my bad tillering?
cheers
willie:
i think Badger method detects a weight loss which precedes set, and he monitored enough bows to get a good idea where he will end up set-wise by seeing how the bow responds at 23/24"?
lowering the weight goal for the finished bow seems to be the most likely action if a bow shows the preliminary symptoms too early.
or getting the outers working more?
simk:
Thanks Willie.
I'd say that "weight loss which precedes set" is already set. Maybe "visible set" would be more precise.
What you say basically makes sense. But when and how much is "too early". Looks like also with this method you rely a lot on individual experience to interpret the situation...?
Cheers
Edit: How much loss do you accept as inevitable practically and when do you react by lowering weight goal or adapting your tiller? :) If you don't see where the set - according to the measurements - happend how do you know you need to scrape the outers? In my bowmaking set mostly gets visible first mid to outers...
George Tsoukalas:
willie, to answer the question you addressed to me..I look for 10" of string travel...not nock travel.
Mirroring the finished bow ...the nocks only move 2 or 3".
Jawge
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