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When to chase a ring
Muskyman:
Okay I’m going to get my ring chased back to the handle area. So I’ll probably end up having two different rings that end in the handle section pretty much right in the center of the bow.. I’ll probably bring it inside for a couple weeks to let the stave dry out more. I’m hoping to have it down to floor tiller at this point. I’ll probably glue a couple pieces of wood onto the handle section to make a handle and fades on it later. I saw some deer back sinew on 3rivers archery pre-proceeded so I might get some of that and some hide glue as well. Probably will make a flat bow 1 1/2 inch limbs at the fades to half way up the limb and taper down to 1/2 inch at the noch. About 72 inches total length. Simple design and one I’ve made on the few hickory bows I’ve done, I’m guessing I should clean the back of the bow before putting the sizing on it, I think I saw someone using denatured alcohol for that. I’ll look into that before I do it. Then do the sizing and let it dry.. then do the first sinew course. Once I get to the point where I’m going to put sinew on it I’ll revisit this topic on here and hopefully have found some good info on the process as well as the info I’ve gotten from you guys. I might try and see if I can find some of the books I’ve seen talked about on here about bow building and see what info I can find in those as well. Going to try and take some time and get more info before jumping into doing this so I end up having a better chance for success. I have seen where people have had their sinew lift on them, can that be salvaged or is it trash at that point?
Thanks Dave, and everyone else. I’m hoping to work on my hickory stave through the winter and jump back and forth between the two bows so I don’t destroy my efforts on one or both
Mike
Muskyman:
Is th white wood on here still sapwood?
Muskyman:
Another pic of me chasing the ring
Kidder:
Muskyman that does appear to be sapwood. Often you’ll find a transition ring that is sapwood in places. I can tell you’re wanting to try rawhide and that should work perfectly fine. I would still try to get a perfect ring before rawhide application. If it were me, even if I had a perfect ring I would still soft back that bow - the rings are so fine that there are going to be places where they are paper thin once cleaned up. Having a soft backing is just a little insurance. As for sinew backing, the best glue you can find is Knox gelatin. Pretty hard to beat a sinew backed Osage, but that really is a different bow altogether.
superdav95:
Mike. As for sinew lifting off… I would size really well and this should solve most of the issues with lifting off. As added measure against lifting you can wrap with bandage so it breath and stay firm on the back. I use horse leg wrap instead of tensor bandage actually for my last sinewed bow and it worked better that I can tell. Less lines in the sinew from the wrap. I’ve tried the inner tube wrap also on a bamboo bow too that worked well. I got this technique from pat B I believe if memory serves. In this technique you lay all your sinew and let it set up but not dry. Then wrap with strips of t shirt cloth or old bed sheet then apply little heat from setting in sun or just low setting on heat gun. This will force out excess glue to the surface while keeping sinew down. The next day I wrap it tighter with the 1” wide strips of inner tube leaving a 1/16” gap in the wrap. Then heat up again. I’ve had to really experiment with this to get it right. It worked out in the end on a heavily c shaped bamboo bow I did earlier this year. It worked good to keep the sinew down on a heavily reflexed shape. FYI. There is a tutorial on this method if you search the pa forum under pat B if I’ve got that right from memory. Like kidder said you can use Knox gelatine however I personally like the hide glue better for sinew. I’ve used sturgeon fish bladder glue one one bow with good results too. Little harder to come bow that glue but it has the benefit of added water proofing and longer set times which is nice.
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