Main Discussion Area > Bows
Moisture in a bow
Aksel:
Since the stave dries from outside to inside, and the moisture meter measure the woods surface, wouldn´t it make good sense to dry the stave longer (if possible) -say 4 inches - and when you think wood is dry, cut that excess 4 inches off to get a reading from the core of the stave?
Muskyman:
Aksel, it’s been floor tillered and has nocks and a long string on it. To long of a story to go into for now but, I’m letting it dry out a bit more because it was cut not to long ago
Pat B:
Woods dries at an approximate rate of 1" of thickness per year so a 2" thick stave that has been in the dry for a year should be at R/H equilibrium(1" from the top and bottom to the middle) From there you can reduce the M/C artificially in a heat box, in a dry house and even through heat treating. As you reduce the stave it will dry quicker. Be sure to keep the back sealed until you are ready for finish work. I've had staves that were 10 years or more in the dry check on the back as I exposed another back ring.
Shorten up your long string until it is right at the bow's length or slightly longer and once you get to first brace and can see how the strings tracks you can used the braced to check the tiller.
Muskyman:
Thanks Pat I’ll shorten the string and go from there. That makes since now I think about it. I’ve got a lot to learn about making bows but looking forward to it truthfully.
Pat B:
Keep asking questions and posting pics and I'll help you the best I can. :OK
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