Main Discussion Area > Bows

Osage and Dry heat? Revisited

<< < (4/12) > >>

bradsmith2010:
if the stave is not dry enough,, the oil might help

Pappy:
Guess we will just have to agree to disagree , :) I have had problem with checks on the back even with dry wood especially if they needed much correction, but with oil on the bell, seal the back and heat slow I have had none so for me it's not worth the chance.  :) once it happens it to late, it don't usually ruin the bow unless they run off the edge but just looks bad. ;)

 Pappy

bentstick54:
This is the 3rd one I’ve had this happen on. Bows are shootable, but i would like to figure out what’s causing this and how to prevent it. These have all been staves that I have kept avoiding due to twists and bends. I finally decided it was time to try and learn how to straighten them. (Ran out of straight staves). I think all of the above advice definitely has merit, and the 1st 2 where only 2 years in storage, taken down to a thin layer of sapwood, sealed with several heavy brushed on coats of shellac. I chased them to a clean back ring but did not seal again before applying heat. These 2, I can agree were probably still had too much moisture in them. The 3rd one I really feel was dry.

Can I be applying the heat too fast, too hot, or too long?

I’m starting another one, another 10 year old stave, that I’ve chased the back on. I think I will seal this 1, then get it to floor tiller, and try oil. I’ve got nothing to lose. I no different techniques work in different areas, I just have to find one that works for me.

Pat B:
I've always used oil when bending wood with dry heat. I believe it helps to prevent scorching, it helps hold the heat a bit longer and by doing so it helps the heat penetrate better. I have no proof of any of this but it has always worked for me. As far as adding shellac to the back when heat correcting, since I started doing this I don't get checks in the back with heat treating and like I said I've had staves that were in the dry for 10 years that checked when heat was applied for tempering or correcting. That is why any time I chase a clean ring on a stave or or a bow I seal the back, no matter how well seasoned it is.
 The only time I don't use oil is if I'm tempering the belly. Then I want the dry heat to scorch the belly to help improve the compression values of the wood. I do however seal the back with shellac beforehand.

paulsemp:
I like to use oil on major corrections. I've done it plenty of times without oil also but once in a while I get a crack and like to blame it on no oil

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page