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Hairline cracks when heat/steam bending?

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Marin:
Is it bad to try and scrape them off on the back of the bow ? There was only one I noticed and I didn’t know if it would just get deeper if I didn’t scrape it off

Pat B:
This is why I use shellac on the back of most bows that are going to be heated for tempering or corrections. Since I've started doing this I don't get checks in the back.
 Generally speaking, these checks are mostly cosmetic unless they run off the bow.

bradsmith2010:
Pat,, how do you get the shellac off before sinewing

Pat B:
Brad, a good wipe down with denatured alcohol will remove the shellac. Shellac has an alcohol carrier and the shellac will dissolve when wiped with alcohol.  Also, shellac is impervious to steam so you can still steam a stave with the shellac on the back. Dean Torges talks about using shellac when he would shape unseasoned osage staves in his "Hunting the Osage Bow".  If necessary a very light sanding works too but usually the alcohol rubdown is enough.

Marin:
As to the cracks on the back, the small one has reappeared. I had tried to scrap it off before (it was shallow and I am backing this bow) so I know it doesn't go that deep but I don't reallt want to shave the back in one spot. I am however cautious that when I back this the crack will only grow as it would be under similar stresses to what caused the crack in the first place, and with this crack being not in the center, I am a little worried. Would just filling it in with hide glue and putting an extra strip of sinew be enough caution, on top of the 3 or so layers of sinew I'll be covering it with?
PS Don't be too alarmed at the violated grain in the photo. This was very very tight grained juniper to begin with s9 wyat seems like a major divot is actually barely noticeble when feeling the bow back. 

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