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Apple wood bow?

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joachimM:
Consider this:
an apple tree needs to be capable of holding huge amounts of weight on its branches (just like most fruit trees).
Moreover, branches (thinner than 6-7 cm, 2.5-3") consisted largely of juvenile wood: the grain of the wood fibers deposited is more diagonal, which leads to more spiral grain, but also to more flexible wood (it has lower stiffness and can be bent further).
So there you have it: if it checks more, it's because it is more flexible.


Hamish:
 If you take the bark off, seal the back, ends, and any big knots with a couple of coats of PVA.

Yes it does crack if left in the round or in really large sections, like quarter  splits from large logs.

Lost Oki:
Helped them cut most of the apple tree down today.  Ended up with three possible's (my uneducated opinion).  Waxed the ends hope to get to split them tomorrow or Tues. and will see where this takes us.   

M2A:
I cut a couple last year about the size you have there, in March. I ran out of time to do any more work on them other than seal the ends. They did not check, maybe I got lucky. I dont think splitting is the best option for apple. Like JoachimM says, the grain tends to spiral and in my experience it tends to be interlocking. You may want to cut stave out with a bandsaw or hand tools. Thats what I'll be doing when I start on mine. I'll not be as concerned with the grain as much as with other woods. Just my 2 cents. Nice find and good luck!
Mike       

Pat B:
Anything 2" or over should make a decent bow. With poles that small sawing them in half lengthwise is probably a better option than trying to split them. You may have to add a riser to some of the smaller ones but that shouldn't be a problem.

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