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Take down yew bow project.
superdav95:
--- Quote from: Hamish on April 12, 2023, 07:59:34 pm ---Even if you can't see any bend, and the handle/fades are supposed to be stiff, there is still plenty of tension stress going on.
The use of a step down at the back part of the male tenon, automatically creates a weakness. Some people manage to get away with it, more by luck than by design, and it seems to be popular with fg bowyers. Fg bows tend to have longer stiff fades, and deeper handles.
Its a real shame because that bow was lookin real classy before it popped.
You are right about cause and remedy, as you mentioned in your assessment. Try another TD, just don't cut into the handle on the back, any more than minor adjustments to make it match the other billet, and feel good in the hand.
--- End quote ---
Hamish. I may try another at some point. Gonna work on finishing a few other projects first then come back to it. I think your right that it’s possible to do despite the hurdles to make it work. Would you do it the same as I’ve done minus the step it the male tenon at the sapwood??? My thinking was to try it again but just add more wraps or strips at the back to beef that area up a little. This would allow not cutting into the sapwood at all if done right which I didn’t do obviously. Your thoughts on this???
Hamish:
Dave your fades look to be about 2" long? That's pretty normal on a good hunting bow. I would either make absolutely sure there is no apparent bend in the fades, and inner limbs or increase the fades to 3" to give you a little more wood to stiffen the transition area. Essentially the same thing, just a slight subtle difference, in design and or tillering.
I'd have no step down at the back. You could put a little extra wrap on the back area of the grip, when making the sleeve, but I don't think its absolutely necessary because the shell of the handle didn't fail.
I don't think you need to add any harder material along the side and belly like you did on the one that broke. You could still reinforce the end grain like you did. Your craftsmanship looks top notch!!!
I haven't made a resin/fg wrap, shell handle with a softwood like yew before. I suspect you might have more likelihood of the joint getting a little loose over time, than if you use hickory or osage or some other genuine hardwood for the billets. A commercial metal sleeve carefully fitted would be more appropriate with yew, because the wood is protected from direct contact, and won't wear or compress.
Del the cat:
Although you don't need to follow a ring on the back of a Yew bow... a sharp discontinuity like the step down into a sleeve is just asking for it to splinter. I've had it happen with a boo backed Yew, but then turned it into a Frankenbow takedown with the upper limb self Yew, taking care to let the sapwood run continuously right down into the socket.
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-frankenbow.html
Del
superdav95:
Thanks hamish and Del for the info. Very informative. When making this bow I knew there would be challenges but was up for it. Seeing your video del on you Frankenstein bow lit a fire under me with this one again and I have a smaller piece of yew that I may just have another crack at it sooner then later to get this back on track. I may have to adjust my draw weight like you did depending on my replacement piece. Thanks again guys! Update shortly
superdav95:
So I got to thinking about this project again after being inspired by dels Frankenstein bow. Went out to the shop and found a sliver of yew wood I had planned on making a kids bow out of. Decided to use it for this instead. Sorry kids! Sapwood is a little thick on this one and grain may not be quite as tight as my original but should work ok. I’ll thin down the sapwood a tiny bit to somewhat match. I think we may be back in business. It’s either that or I’m just too stubborn to know when to quit! ;).
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