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Getting to full draw without losing thickness or gaining set?
superdav95:
that said, stuck needs to decide if the bow needs to be a replica with exact limb thickness dimensions or a shooter, which tillering without set, calls for slightly thinner limb.
If going for a shooter, the reduction in thickness is not all that much
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I can agree with that.
stuckinthemud:
It needs to be a shooter, so I will go carefully, try to minimise set and lose whatever thickness I need to and hope it’s not much
Hamish:
--- Quote from: stuckinthemud on June 28, 2023, 06:37:26 pm ---Not done any tempering on this as I have lost a couple of yew bows that blew for no reason and some of the more experienced forum members have suggested this can happen with heat treated yew, also, the original probably wasn’t heat treated and I’d like to stay “correct “ if at all possible
--- End quote ---
Yes you do need to be careful with yew and dry heat. Heating a little reflex is different to toasting the belly though, like many people do with whitewoods. Just enough heat to bend a couple of inches of reflex. A week or 2 resting to rehydrate the limbs before continuing tillering is pretty safe.
I agree the original bow is unlikely to have been subjected to heat, or reflexed. They had on average access to better quality wood. However the original bow probably took a fair bit of set too, so if you want authenticity I wouldn't be too worried how much set it takes.
Do you know in what condition the original bow was found, eg intact, or fragments? Where was it found eg, burial find, bog, or other etc?
stuckinthemud:
The bow is almost perfect, silted up moat (bog) original drawings show the bow as straight but photos sent me by the museum show deflex/set so there is a strong possibility the wood is compression wood and moved with changed moisture levels. Will try and post photos tomorrow
Hamish:
Cool, looking forward to it.
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