Main Discussion Area > Bows
Does some woods hold heat longer? & bow build
Selfbowman:
Mike on this one the shins staked up so high is because I was to lazy to make another caul. But I often put a 1/4 “ shim under the handle toward the end of tiller say 20” or so on the tiller tree. Then clamp the ends and slide a 1/4” shim between the caul and the back to get it to barely touch the length of the limbs. Also if you have a knot you can put the shim on each side and it will not be affected by the caul. I seam to have more scorching when the heat reflects off the caul on to the back edges.
Selfbowman:
Anyone built a bow limb like this to prove mass placement? Ok time for science to laugh at me. I’ve seen big tooth pic bows so Badger here is mass principle at its best. I have some drops off the bottom of my staves I think I will see how it tillers
Jim Davis:
There are probably dimensions that can work, but if the width approaches the thickness, at some point, it will become unstable laterally.
M2A:
Thanks for the explanation! I'll hope to try that sometime. Better solution than having to to make a hole in your caul to to keep things flat by a knot.
Selfbowman:
Yes Jim I agree on lateral stable. I just used those dimensions because I built a 50# bow once that was close to 7/8 by 7/8. The bow was quick with little set . Narrow stave.
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