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Does some woods hold heat longer? & bow build
Selfbowman:
You enjoying that retirement life. Now you have more time to be busy.🤠🤠
superdav95:
I’m busier now then when I was working! It’s a good busy though.
superdav95:
--- Quote from: Selfbowman on December 22, 2023, 07:35:22 pm ---Well humidity down to 65 so I worked on the tiller. No set at 20”. 40# at 20” on the long string. Getting close on tiller. But I want more recurve in the ends . New caul. Going to deep heat once more. Will have to retiller to final weight.
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Looking good buddy. The mass is coming off with every heat you do it seems. Like you say more to come off with the handle yet. Just be careful not to let the heat treatment wrap around to the backside and scorch all that hard work down the drain. If you have some rocksol insulation or something to fill those gaps with where the shims are that would prevent the heat going around the belly onto the back. I’d say your in good shape with your numbers at 20” draw. Very interesting build along brother. Be very interested in final weight/mass in the end.
Jim Davis:
Couple of thoughts on heat and wood.
For "heat treating," if you use radiant heat, you can heat from one surface and quit heating before the heat reaches the other surface.
Steaming can only bring the wood to the temperature at which water boils, which is the minimum for bending. So, since it is useful to heat all the way through for bending, steam is good, but a heat gun is better.
Zugul:
--- Quote from: Selfbowman on December 23, 2023, 08:12:14 am ---Not sure yet but these width dimensions and length dimensions that I gave On page one I’m sure would work on locust also. Everyone says I over build in width but that’s what works for me. ive only built a couple of black locust bows . But if you want to send me a really good stave I’ll try one.🤠
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If I only had one! I'm using my last piece of seasoned wood for my latest build
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