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Tiller gadget???

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JW_Halverson:
I do something similar once I get the bow to low brace. I mark the end of the fade outs and measure the total distance down the limb to the nock. I divide that by 8 and mark the limb at each of the 8 divisions (I usually make one limb 1" longer than the other, so each limb is marked equally)

Then at low brace I measure the distance from the string to the belly of the limb at each of the stations. I mark with pencil the locations where the measurement on one limb is less than the other. I make light marks if they are close, dark marks if not close. Then, having measured each of the 8 stations and marked the limbs appropriately, I take the bow over to the shave horse and scrape off the pencil marks. Restring, exercise the bow 20-30 times pulling about 2/3 of the final draw weight target goal, rinse and repeat.

Once both limbs are symmetrical and have a pleasing curve, I start to shorten the string to bring it closer to full brace. Rinse and repeat the measuring, marking, scraping. By the time I hit brace height I am usually fairly close to target draw weight and have the bending profile I want in the limbs. From there, tillering is usually just taking an equal number of long strokes from fade out to tips with a card file from both limbs.

superdav95:

--- Quote from: JW_Halverson on January 08, 2024, 11:06:50 pm ---I do something similar once I get the bow to low brace. I mark the end of the fade outs and measure the total distance down the limb to the nock. I divide that by 8 and mark the limb at each of the 8 divisions (I usually make one limb 1" longer than the other, so each limb is marked equally)

Then at low brace I measure the distance from the string to the belly of the limb at each of the stations. I mark with pencil the locations where the measurement on one limb is less than the other. I make light marks if they are close, dark marks if not close. Then, having measured each of the 8 stations and marked the limbs appropriately, I take the bow over to the shave horse and scrape off the pencil marks. Restring, exercise the bow 20-30 times pulling about 2/3 of the final draw weight target goal, rinse and repeat.

Once both limbs are symmetrical and have a pleasing curve, I start to shorten the string to bring it closer to full brace. Rinse and repeat the measuring, marking, scraping. By the time I hit brace height I am usually fairly close to target draw weight and have the bending profile I want in the limbs. From there, tillering is usually just taking an equal number of long strokes from fade out to tips with a card file from both limbs.

--- End quote ---

JW.  I like your approach with the 8 sections and markings. I’m gonna use that.  I’ve been using finger calipers and actual calipers and have been writing measurements down and essentially doing same thing.  I’m only Using this yard stick gadget to get to low brace and then put it up on the
Wall pull and finish up there.  I’ve been finding that this gets me very close once I get to brace to symmetrical even bend. I then so similar as you after this.  I’m gonna use your approach at low brace I think.  Thanks.  Dave

Pappy:
Looks good Dave, guess I am still old school, I still use a tiller stick until I get it to low brace, my long string is as short as I can get it, I pull it down on the stick an inch at a time and with it on the stick I stretch a string from nock to nock just like I was stringing the bow , then look and make my measurements , make any adjustments and move down another inch, stretching the string each time from N-N , guess the string works kind of like your yard stick  ??? by the time I am ready for low brace the limbs are usually very even bend, once low braced I go to the tiller tree from there. :)
 Pappy

superdav95:
Yes this very similar to what I’m basically doin here.  I like the string idea. I may have to give that a go too.  Like you I just use this to get me to low brace  then onto the wall tiller tree.   There has been recent discussions about a careful approach to early tiller and how it can affect the overall outcome of the bow.  I believe this is the case and a lot of mistakes can happen just getting to brace.  A good tiller starts early in the build. 

Jim Davis:
I floor tiller until normal brace, then eyeball the bends and adjust as needed.

When the bends look as good as I can guess I go to my tillering post and pull with a scale and rope.

I don't do any measuring. Measuring is of no use unless you are working with a flawless stave. Any kinks or curves make numbers worthless.

People have made tillering tools for a long time, but tillered without them far longer.

https://www.archerylibrary.com/books/hickman/archery-the-technical-side/klopsteg/a-bend-meter-and-a-bow-weigher-using-the-same-indicator/

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