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Questions and answers
willie:
--- Quote ---but with the added mass it was a wash
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I think Mark (Mattockx) mentioned this as a reason why glass bows designs rarely outperform wood in speed.
--- Quote --- I would then bake them according to the instructions for the resin. I wonder what performance if any might be had in doing this. Not very primitive for sure but might be cool experiment.
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Perhaps saturate only the belly lam before glue-up? I would imagine the resin weight penalty would increase if applied to parts of the crossection that do not need compression enhancement
willie:
--- Quote from: Selfbowman on January 09, 2024, 10:40:18 am ---Has anyone ever taken a bow with set or heat treated a finished bow to say 300-350 degrees and brushed hide glue into the hot opened pours of the wood and the let it cool for a couple days . If so what was the results?
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micro photographs of wood cells look like bundles of straws. once a cell wall starts to collapse (take set), I suppose filling the pores could help, but the damage is done and the fix is like a splint
why not fill the pores before the cell are compromised? might help then from taking set sooner.
Selfbowman:
Willie i agree but my thought was to get as close to final tiller as possible so we can get the full advantage. Maybe do it at 20 “ of draw . That’s when set starts for me. The thing is when you are trying to hit as close the 50 as possible for flight bows it’s hard to hit your weights doing this to soon.
willie:
that makes sense.
so in the other thread about daves tillering yardstick mod, it occured to me that if one could make a bow that was perfect (well, as close to perfect as possible) at brace, then in theory one could have a winner with the first few shots. OK. thats impratical for most, but it did get me thinking about how the average bowyer would know what perfect at brace height would look like?
Unless he was like Arvin! ;D
1. settle on a design that works
2. keep accurate tracings and weight records on previous builds
3. build to spec.
I think Badger tested a bow built by Dave Dewey thqat was built to spec and never drawn previous to testing. maybe Steve can comment on how close to tiller it came out, I do recall it performed rather well.
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: Muskyman on January 09, 2024, 11:39:50 am ---Okay, the subject says questions and answers so I guess I’m not hijacking The thread if I ask one am I. If I am I apologize.
Question
I have a yew bow I built last year that took about 2-3 inches of set. Would it help it if I put it on a reflex form and heated it then put rawhide on the back. It shoots okay and seems to have decent cast. Or should I just love it for what it is.
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I've rejuvenated bows by heat treat, these posts from my blog show what can be done:-
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/03/big-bow-detail-and-hickory-challenge.html
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2013/03/hickory-challenge-result.html
I've done similar with Yew bows. Any bow can get a bit tired after years of use. The main thing is to correct any minor tillering issues at the same time as the heat treating.
Del
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