Main Discussion Area > Bows
Help with heat corrections on osage. /. Updated
bentstick54:
Great job Muskyman. I think I remember reading your past thread. My stave is a 10 year old stave that I saved because of the growth rings. I’ve always read steam for wet wood and dry heat for dry wood, and I’ve got an inexpensive moisture meter that won’t register a reading below 7%. This stave won’t register a reading with it.
Thanks Arvin, I knew you went back to the heat bench multiple times, but wasn’t sure if you had ran into any issues in doing so. I’m sure you start out with better staves than what I’m used to working with, but remember you had built a snakey bow once also. I’ve still got to thin the limbs down some first, then decide where to start. Hopefully I can get the tips aligned and the twist out.
bentstick54:
Picture of end grain.
Pat B:
I've used dry heat with oil quite a few times on a stave with no noticeable problems. be sure the back of the stave is sealed or it may possibly check whether using wet or dry heat. Even a stave that was cut 10 years ago has some equilibrium moisture and adding heat will force that moisture out which can cause checking.
I use spray shellac to seal the back because it is easily remover when the job is done.
bentstick54:
Yeah Pat, I’ve gone to shellacking the back, and using canola oil on the belly anytime I’m applying heat. Pretty much solved my checking problems.
Gordon:
Just looking at the first and second photo I would have probably steamed reflex into the outer limbs first and then addressed string alignment by steaming the handle and bending it in a press. After that, I would have used dry heat for smaller adjustments as necessary. Never had a problem going back over an area with dry heat multiple times, but once you apply dry heat to an area, don't go back with steam - that has resulted in lots of headaches for me in the past.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version