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Yew billets belly drop build with sinew backing.
Pappy:
Looking good Dave, Lots of chewing on them bows but feel sure it will work if your yaws don't get worn out. ;) :)
Pappy
Doug509:
What a great project and comparison. I just graduated from vine maple and started my first yew project. I might have to violate some sapwood on the stave I chose. Do you absolutely have to add sinew or just for insurance?
Good luck. I will be following
superdav95:
--- Quote from: Pappy on January 26, 2024, 08:53:38 am ---Looking good Dave, Lots of chewing on them bows but feel sure it will work if your yaws don't get worn out. ;) :)
Pappy
--- End quote ---
Thanks pappy! Ya it’s gonna be lots of chewing for certain. I may have to split it up over a couple days. I’ve been toying with the idea of a spit bowl and letting it soak it there too to assist with the amount of sinew I’m gonna be dealing with.
superdav95:
--- Quote from: Doug509 on January 26, 2024, 09:38:54 am ---What a great project and comparison. I just graduated from vine maple and started my first yew project. I might have to violate some sapwood on the stave I chose. Do you absolutely have to add sinew or just for insurance?
Good luck. I will be following
--- End quote ---
Thanks Doug. You don’t always need to back yew if rings are violated. In fact depending on the amount of violations and where along the limb you may not need to back at all. Many guys have build nice yew bows with violated rings with no backing. It’s mainly an insurance measure. I’ve made them with or without backing. I back all my yew bows with rawhide now. I find it provides that protective layer for the relatively soft sapwood. It also provides a nice canvas for stain or paint as well.
superdav95:
I spent some time today on both of these after resting these from the heat corrections and flipped tips were put in. Floor tillered bow to roughly 55-57lbs at low brace. Both bending evenly and balanced. Little heavier then I was originally thinking before starting sinew but I think this will assist with not stressing the belly wood too much and have the sinew work well with unstressed belly fibers. I also don’t want to induce too much reflex with these Botha at the end. My goal for these is around 3-4” retained reflex. Right now they are about there close to 4” reflex. With the sinew added I will gain around 2” more. I figure I’ll loose about 2-3” after shoot in. That will give me a very easy shooter out of both. On my other sinew backed bows I would lay down 2 or 3 layers of thinner bundles carefully measured and pre soaked and combed out and washed I would used measured amounts of hide glue on these bows I’m going for a different approach. I’m planning to apply 60-70grams of sinew on each bow. Some may seem to think this is a little on the light side for sinew. it may be but I guess it depends on the build. I’m going to only sinew about about 15-20” of each limb and tie off with a wrap about 6” from the end basically where the flipped tips are starting. I’ll use some small shorter strands to incorporate at the handle overlapping a bit into the limbs. I’m gonna go for one big layer. This goes against my typical trusted method. I will measure and separate equal bundles for each limb of about 30-35grams. Let the chewing experiment begin!!! Here’s some pics of the bows to where I’m at now. Notice the mild dishes out belly of the sapwood bow. I decided on this slight hollow belly due to the higher crown. Hoping it will even out the stresses better. I just followed the contours feeling along with my fingers to get it close.
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