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Junior bow knot?

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paulc:
Thanks all, I hope to resume work on the bow tomorrow.

I haven't settled yet on which limb is top limb:anyone want to offer their way of choosing top limb?  I'm leaning towards putting the knot on top limb but really have no reason as to why...

Wondering if maybe now is the time  I should remove the latex paint I used to seal the back, before I do any more work on tiller. That way if there's an issue under the paint it'll reveal itself sooner. I am assuming just enough lite sanding to reveal the grain..

And the Limbs are moving pretty good from the work I've done on the belly. I am inclined to go to "short string" for next tiller session. How short is the short string? What I am currently using spans nock to nock w just a bit of slack. Shorten it so it's 3" shorter? 4" shorter?

And I recently watched a video on "authentic" Cherokee bows..nothing really to call a handle; just the midpoint of a shaped piece of wood...bending from tip to tip.  Generally when I change horses in mid-stream it bites me in the backside but I'm sorely tempted to do away w my unformed handle...

Wood is river birch....as always thanks in advance. Paul

Del the cat:
I prefer to leave extra width rather than thickness for knots. Follow the flow of the wood round the knot.
Del

Jim Davis:

--- Quote from: Del the cat on February 03, 2024, 06:24:51 am ---I prefer to leave extra width rather than thickness for knots. Follow the flow of the wood round the knot.
Del

--- End quote ---

+1

GlisGlis:
45lbs+ could be alot for a junior bow

pierce_schmeichel:
I'm with pat b. As long as you don't violate it it's fine. I have had knots that go all the way through a bow in the working limb area. As long as you follow the grain around the knot and leave the knot alone you're good. Also that's a very long bow haha.

You can even drill knots out carefully and have really cool looking holes.

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