Main Discussion Area > Bows
Tiller. Split vs 3 under.
Jim Davis:
Arvin, for your flight shooting, these things probably matter. For hunting or 3D, as long as everything is the same shot to shot, we can put the arrow where we want it.
Bill B.:
Thank you for all the replies!
I’ll be rounding the bow support on my tiller and moving the scale to the aero position from the middle finger. Hopefully this will eliminate some of the unneeded stress during the Tiller process.
Alex
My friend tried my suggestion to lower his knocking point by quarter of an inch. He says the bowl is now quiet with excellent arrow flight. It’s no longer broken so he’s all done fixing it. I still don’t understand the physics/geometry of “why” this worked. If you have any insight on this, I would love to hear about it.
Selfbowman:
Jim I agree with you totally. But I have broken lots of records tillering from center of bow then razing the shelf 1-1/4” and the string knock a 1/4” higher from there. Knocking underneath.And again i think a wood bow settles in to the way an archer shoots the bow to a degree.A glass bow will not take set to accommodate for any archers personnel shooting style. So I’m not sure this makes a Hugh difference. You just need the arrow to come out of the bow clean. Yes I’m sure there are lots of folks disagree with my thinking but I have had success with this method.
Alex C:
--- Quote from: Bill B. on February 04, 2024, 08:38:25 am ---Alex
My friend tried my suggestion to lower his knocking point by quarter of an inch. He says the bowl is now quiet with excellent arrow flight. It’s no longer broken so he’s all done fixing it. I still don’t understand the physics/geometry of “why” this worked. If you have any insight on this, I would love to hear about it.
--- End quote ---
Bill, that makes sense to me from a geometry perspective - to be honest, I have FAR less experience than most folks on here when it comes to bow building, I just have a knack for physics. So most of my thoughts on this are theoretical and not backed up by experience.
The nock point just may not have been ideal for a few reasons, many of which are solely dependent on the arrow and not the bow. But ignoring arrow dynamics, lowering the nock point to solve the problem would make me think his top limb was probably storing/expending more force than the bottom, so tuning would be difficult. With the lower nock point, that takes strain off the top limb and places more on the bottom, potentially allowing both tips to arrive at brace height more simultaneously and with more equal force. Again, just from a geometry perspective.
It could also just be the angle made by the limb tip, arrow pass, and nock point was just too acute at the top and to big at the bottom. No bow/arrow combo is going to like extremes for those angles.
Alex C:
--- Quote from: Selfbowman on February 03, 2024, 08:48:23 pm ---Guys I haven’t got this all figured out by any means.but when shooting flight I use two fingers split. So should I make my top limb 1” longer and shoot middle of the bow??
--- End quote ---
Like I said earlier, take my insight with a grain of salt because I have no real-world data to back any of this up (yet), I'm just doing some math.
But I can absolutely see why shooting split finger would be better for flight shooting because there is little-to-no energy lost in the transfer of force from the fingers to the arrow on release - they are pretty much the same point on the string. I'd imagine shooting from the geometric middle of the bow would mean equal length limbs could be much closer to equal tiller for maximum efficiency. Raising the nock or shelf would mean you'd want a slightly longer top limb - the more you raise them, the longer the top needs to be. Having a stiffer bottom limb would have the same effect as having a longer top limb from a geometry perspective.
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