Main Discussion Area > Bows
Steam bending apparatus
Bruce M:
Sounds good, just keep it simple, I'm going to go that route.
I have the form all set although after reading the "show your form" thread I think I might add a backer board like some of those pictured in that thread, this way I can clamp some curve out of the limb if needed.
Bruce M:
I went out to my scrap yard and found a 7" SS chimney liner, plugged it with some conduit plugs and slit some holes where needed. Worked incredibly well, thanks for the better ideas.
I did the left side yesterday and the right side this morn.
Question about heat treating that I'm a little confused with and that is when should I heat treat. Should I get it more closer to final thickness, it's getting close to that, probably an 1/8"-3/16". Seems to me anyway that maybe I should heat treat it now while clamped in the form to try and set it in place.
I'll be using a heat gun for that purpose, or is heat treating once it's been steam bent not necessary, I just dunno.
superdav95:
--- Quote from: Bruce M on March 08, 2024, 02:42:55 pm ---I went out to my scrap yard and found a 7" SS chimney liner, plugged it with some conduit plugs and slit some holes where needed. Worked incredibly well, thanks for the better ideas.
I did the left side yesterday and the right side this morn.
Question about heat treating that I'm a little confused with and that is when should I heat treat. Should I get it more closer to final thickness, it's getting close to that, probably an 1/8"-3/16". Seems to me anyway that maybe I should heat treat it now while clamped in the form to try and set it in place.
I'll be using a heat gun for that purpose, or is heat treating once it's been steam bent not necessary, I just dunno.
--- End quote ---
Bruce. I would get your steam bending or corrections done and then let it sit for a few days. I would get it floor tillered stage then heat treat. If you use a heat gun for heat treatment just clamp bow to your form and move heat gun along and inch or two every 3-4 mins. Depending on heat gun and settings heat output. This is for white wood only btw. Don’t do this with Osage or yew/junipers. You can add rails to the sides of your form to rest you heat gun holder onto to maintain equal distance while moving along. The other option is to incorporate a couple straps to do the same thing. I’ll include a picture of mine. The other thing to consider is to place a layer of insulation wrap between your bow back and your form to prevent the heat wrapping around to your back and scorching it. You should end up with a deep penetration midway through the limbs thickness leaving visible browning but not scorch black. Last pic shows the deep penetration of heat midway. Hope this helps.
Bruce M:
Yes it is very helpful and pictures are always appreciated, I'm more of a visual person.
I will get it a bit closer to final thickness and more bendy before heat treating, I think maybe getting it to brace might be a good point to heat treat, I'll try that and see how it goes.
Thanks again for the help.
on edit; Didn't mean to gloss over probably the most important advise in your response and that is to let it sit for few days before doing anything.
I tend to try and push things along at my pace but I'm quickly learning that doesn't usually work in doing this sort of thing, I will let it sit in that form at least 3 days.
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