Main Discussion Area > Bows

Yew long bow - knots issue

<< < (2/2)

Del the cat:
Yeah, as people have already advised, just leave a little extra width. At 8" from the tips You'll only be about 20mm wide (and a bit thinner) anyway, and the knots may have disappeared.
Just proceed slowly. A clean back is the important thing, you can always plug or patch the belly .
The knots presumably come out from the centre of the branch, so may well disappear off the belly (see sketch)
I think you'll be ok.
Del

freke:
I have work the stave this weekend and one side with the knot that concerned me most turned out pretty nice, much as Del guessed.  I have also taken down the sides so it is about 33-34 mm most of the length except closer to tips where it drops  some, thickness is about the same ( little thicker in at mid).

Remaining is the other side where I am not sure how to deal with or at least not decide, it had two relatively big knots sticking out sideways and one smaller raised on top. The bigger two have I now reduce and don't think will give me any issue but the raised knot is left to deal with, and leaving me with two options, either remove it or keep it work aground it - advice how should I think here?

The knot is about 7-8" from the potential nock if bow ends up 70"-73", and about 40mm leaving about 25 mm to the where it raise up. Initially I was thinking about keeping the raised knot but  now am I not so sure.
With a draw of about 28" what is an optimal length of an ELB at 50#, splice is about 4" ( not to forget it will not bend in handle)?

Thanks,
Jonas

Hamish:
You're in a good range at 70-73" for a 28"draw, stiff handle, elb. Leave it full length it will give you a little bit to play with if it turns out lighter than intended.

What I would do is draw the width of the limbs of the bow on some plywood or paper, and take measurements. Transfer these to the stave along the centreline and it will show you exactly how much wood you need. You might even avoid most of the knots.

Are you using a longer upper limb, or equal length? There are many variations for an ELB, eg straight taper from the handle to the tips;  or width of the handle, and 4" either side of the handle then tapers to 3/4" , 8" away from the tip, then down to 5/8-1/2 at the tip.

The 2nd variation is better for limb stability, to prevent twisting on the side plane.

freke:

--- Quote from: Hamish on June 30, 2024, 07:46:18 pm ---You're in a good range at 70-73" for a 28"draw, stiff handle, elb. Leave it full length it will give you a little bit to play with if it turns out lighter than intended.

What I would do is draw the width of the limbs of the bow on some plywood or paper, and take measurements. Transfer these to the stave along the centerline and it will show you exactly how much wood you need. You might even avoid most of the knots.

Are you using a longer upper limb, or equal length? There are many variations for an ELB, eg straight taper from the handle to the tips;  or width of the handle, and 4" either side of the handle then tapers to 3/4" , 8" away from the tip, then down to 5/8-1/2 at the tip.

The 2nd variation is better for limb stability, to prevent twisting on the side plane.

--- End quote ---

Thanks Hamish, I was consider an inch longer upper, then follow the second of yours suggested layouts.   

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page