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To back or not to back…or where to back?

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Capt.Moses:

--- Quote from: willie on July 13, 2024, 01:32:29 am ---
just curious of the purpose for linen backing, and how thick are you thinking the linen will be?

this is a curious design and hope you can link to a pic showing the proposed reflexed tips


--- End quote ---

I saw a method that used 10 or so lengths of linen twine spaced out across the back of the bow(not sure if this is usual or traditional but I’m just going with it). As for the proposed recurve tips, I only have a very rough sketch to show you. The thin part of the bow is roughly 15 inches long(according to the plans in the original post), and I plan on making it so about 3 inches is perpendicular to the bow, with about 6 inches or so for the curve.

lebhuntfish:
Backing is a good safety net especially for new bowyers.

I remember when I started, I got caught up with all the different ways people had made bows, and all the different backings.
I will tell you this, throw away your FG tap! If you do some research it's been proven as pretty much a waste of time and money.
Now, our ancestors had it figured out they didn't know it but they just used what they had available.
If you want a extremely strong backing that is fairly easy to apply then get you some rawhide. Don't use the dog bone rawhide like on YouTube. Use thin deer rawhide or I use thin goat rawhide because I can find it easily and the price is a little better. Then mix you up some hide glue with Knox unflavored gelatin.
Apply the glue to the bow and the rawhide and just glue it down and work all the bubbles and extra glue out. Work it for a few minutes until it starts to set then let it dry for a day or so. Use a rasp to clean up the edges and light sanding. That's about the strongest backing you can get. Except sinew, but that's a more advanced process.

Patrick

GlisGlis:
that has been discussed many times but holmegaard bow do not show any real sign of having levers (stiff section)
These are the true holmegaard dimensions





Your reference could be the mollegabet bow that has a bending section followed by a thin rigid lever.

superdav95:
Agreed. It does sound more like he is describing mollegabet style bow.  I’ve done a number of these and have incorporated a slight bend in the levers and they are non bending so no sinew or backing used on the levers.  I used a thread wrap where the backing ended at start of levers.  I’ll try and dig up some pictures.   

willie:

--- Quote from: Capt.Moses on July 14, 2024, 01:59:45 am ---

I saw a method that used 10 or so lengths of linen twine..............

--- End quote ---
If the twine will be for safety against breakage and you are building with a board, my thoughts are the proposed width profile/crossection combined with the proposed recurve tips will result in a lower poundage bow once tillered out.

If you wish to optomize the board for the best bow possible, and are open to suggestions, could you post how long/wide'thick your board is and how many pounds pull and draw length you are looking for?
maybe mention something about the previous bows you have built?

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