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Bow layout questions...

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Jim Davis:
A thing to remember: If the archer does the same thing every time, the arrow will fly the same every time--no matter what the geometry of the bow or how it is tillered. If matching arrows are not grouping well, it's the fault of the archer, not the bow.

I make all my bows with the handle on center, fades and limbs equal length. It's just easier and looks good.

bentstick54:
I’m make mine the same as Jim. Has been working for me.

Hamish:
Equal limbs, centre in the middle of the handle is definitely the least complicated, easiest to layout, works well, especially for a stiff handled bow. For a bow that bends through the handle I prefer the arrow pass to be 1" above centre, due to balance when shooting.

ssrhythm:

--- Quote from: Hamish on July 22, 2024, 11:12:09 pm ---For a 3 under draw bow your new proposed method is the easiest, most direct method.
All methods will work for any bow as long as you tiller the bow to mimic your style of draw.

Another option that rarely gets mentioned is different length fades eg instead of 3" fades, you put 2" on the lower limb, and 3" on the top limb. The added benefit is you can get a longer sight window,on a wide limbed bow, without sacrificing the length of the working limb. Working limb length still has an equal layout.

--- End quote ---

This is one of those "why didn't I think of that" moments!  Yes!

Hamish:
I rarely see people use or mention different length fades. I can't remember ever seeing it in bowyers books from any era.
I do have a vintage bow in my collection that does. It's an osage static recurve with brush nocks, sold by Outdoor Sports, I'm guessing from the 1940s, or early 1950's. It has a 2" lower fade and a 3" upper fade. Styled off a Grumley bow, though I don't know if the Grumley also had different length fades.

I wouldn't be in the least surprised if plenty of bowyers have tried and liked this solution over the ages. There is rarely anything new when it comes to wood bows, just rediscovery.

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