Main Discussion Area > Bows

What would you do?

(1/2) > >>

ssrhythm:
I made a bow for the bow trade last year, and when I was putting the final shots thru it, it popped a splinter.  it was too long, and it was 59#@28" with static recurves...osage.  The rings are good, but not overly thick...I'd say "average" thickness. 

I'm going to shorten this bow 6" and sinew back it.

Should I simply string it, open up the crack, drizzle some TB3 in it, and clamp it down...then proceed with the shortening and sinew backing.....OR
Should I chase the next ring down...removing the current violated back and splinter...then proceed with the shortening and sinew backing?

I'm leaning toward re-backing with the next ring down.  I have plenty of weight as is, I will be gaining a lot of weight when I cut six inches off it, and I will also gain a decent amount of weight when I string it backwards and sinew back it into reflex. 

I'm just worried about that splinter...even if glued best I can glue it...it will likely be in the top recurve once I shorten it, and I don't think I want to run the sinew up onto the static recurved section.  I could, but I don't want to if I don't have to, as I don't want the extra mass in the tips.

Has anyone ever popped a splinter and then removed that ring?  Just curious how much weight I'd lose.  50 good scrapes off the belly would likely drop the poundage ~ 3 to 4 lbs from my experience, and 50 scrapes is a lot less wood than an entire ring.  This is what is worrying me about re-backing with the next ring.  Am I going to lose too much weight to get it back to mid 50's by shortening it, sinew backing, and recurving.

Thoughts appreciated,

willie:

--- Quote --- not overly thick...I'd say "average" thickness.
--- End quote ---


thick enough to leave most of the latewood, removing just the earlywood?
or asked another way,
do you think you dipped into the late wood too much around the splitnter and possibly other places to cause the splinter?

how much thickness would you loose if you went down a ring and how thick for the proposed sinew?

bentstick54:
If I were to glue the splinter down I would use a thin superglue not a wood glue. The superglue will flow down into the crack deeper for better coverage.

Mo_coon-catcher:
I would swap the TB for thin CA glue and glue down the splinter then carry one with the shortening and sinew backing you plan. Probably with a little extra sinew over that splinter as well. If the splinter ends up in the non bending portion of the limb I would just fill with super glue and if there are any gaps, fill with any kind of wood or horn dust to fill and smooth over.

Kyle

superdav95:
I would need to know more details on the splinter length and depth and exact position along the top limb before I would decide what to do with the bow.  I’ve glued down lifts or splinters before with thin ca glue just fine depending on the severity of splinter.  I’ve backed these splintered bows in a few different ways.  Sinew, bamboo backed, and rawhide.  The most bullet proof options are sinew or bamboo backing.   The bamboo is only a viable option on more narrow limbed bows.  This is because of the nature of bamboo and the normally higher crown.   Sinew is a great option if it’s a wider limb bow say around 1.5- 1.75” at fades.  If splinter is fairly shallow but is a longer lift I would keep the bow same length and as it is currently laid out and glue down splinter and sinew back. I know that you say it’s too long and need to shorten it.  How long is it?   I’ve done longbows 64-68” just fine backing after glueing down splinters.   You will remove belly wood to retiller to you draw and desired weight from there.  Do 2-3 thinner layers of sinew imo.  Works better and fully dries much quicker.  Measured bundles is recommended to get good equal amounts of sinew on each limb.  Best of luck I’m sure you’ll get it sorted out. 

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page