Main Discussion Area > Bows
When the tillering goal is no set
willie:
--- Quote from: superdav95 on November 30, 2024, 07:14:26 pm --- I used the yard stick method on this build early on to get me to good clean brace. Once there i knew i was headed in a good way with this bow. I also paid very close attention .............. The yardstick method bassically takes overall bend of each limb independently for consistent bend and then comparing them with each other. using the straight edge of the yardstick laid accross the belly of the bow while bent to get a good view of the bend early on has helped me creep up on it.
--- End quote ---
Hi Dave,
is this the yardstick method you mention above? seem to recall a post where you mentioned more about your method, but cant find it now.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,72512.msg1016923.html#msg1016923
perhaps
willie:
--- Quote from: Eric Krewson on December 04, 2024, 10:44:55 am ---I don't get in a hurry tillering a bow, it is a week project of shooting and checking for the slightest anomaly with my gizmo, I am only using 220 grit sandpaper at the end of the tillering process.
--- End quote ---
I got a few 1/2 finished builds in the corner from being in a hurry and gotta say that 220grit for tillering suprises me. 80 grit here.
when I take a break from tillering because my eye tell me two different things, breaking for another cup of coffee doesn't help.
Eric Krewson:
I should have mentioned; that 220-grit paper is on an orbital sander, not hand sanding.
superdav95:
--- Quote from: willie on December 04, 2024, 12:40:46 pm ---
--- Quote from: superdav95 on November 30, 2024, 07:14:26 pm --- I used the yard stick method on this build early on to get me to good clean brace. Once there i knew i was headed in a good way with this bow. I also paid very close attention .............. The yardstick method bassically takes overall bend of each limb independently for consistent bend and then comparing them with each other. using the straight edge of the yardstick laid accross the belly of the bow while bent to get a good view of the bend early on has helped me creep up on it.
--- End quote ---
Hi Dave,
is this the yardstick method you mention above? seem to recall a post where you mentioned more about your method, but cant find it now.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,72512.msg1016923.html#msg1016923
perhaps
--- End quote ---
Yes it is the same. I’ll also add that I like to shoot 1/2 draw, 3/4, then full draw working my way up to full after several shots. This helps me get a good feel for the bow and sort out many of the inconsistency and anomaly that are seen and felt. I’ve had it that I had a perfect looking tiller balance visually going on at brace and 3/4 draw shooting only to end up with slight positive tiller because it felt smoother and shot cleaner. This is where the 220 grit paper comes into play I think too in fine tuning. I find this works well with my bamboo builds too not just stave wood bow builds. I also make sure I round slightly my edges and sand with 180-220grit after each wood removal in tiller process. Just how I do it. It allows me a clean smooth belly to visually pick up on any early issues.
sleek:
Whether a bow takes set or not is often decided before it ever bends. The bows are built either too narrow or wide enough to take the load. If your bow took set, 100% of the time it is because it was not wide enough to handle the stress. Even if the bowyer made an error in the tillering process and made a hinge, the bow is not wide enough to handle the bending load focused in that one area. While most would say, or its taken set due to the hinge, thats incorrect. The hinge is a thin spot and thickness controls bend radius, not draw weight. Draw weight, aka, set control, is 100% a factor of the bows width, ALWAYS.
So, if your bow took set, build another one thats wider. It will 100% take less set assuming the same quality of wood.
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