Main Discussion Area > Bows
When the tillering goal is no set
willie:
--- Quote from: sleek on December 05, 2024, 01:52:12 pm ---So, if your bow took set, build another one thats wider. It will 100% take less set assuming the same quality of wood.
--- End quote ---
Hi Kevin,
we have all built another, and this type of learning gives us a better understanding, or maybe you would call it intuition or judgement. But the next bow is not always quite the same or comes from a different stave etc....
I hope to find a more quantitative approach to detecting the working stress limits of wood before the damage is done.
I think that somewhwere in between overbuilding with excess mass and the point where set shows you the damage done.... is a range of working stress.
Maybe for a hunting bow that shoots sweet with heavier arrows and gets the job done, this is not such a big issue, but I am seeking a method to help build a bow that shoots a very light arrow for flight shooting and needs to get the fastest limb speed at the end of the powerstroke -- A bow that retains and can make use of the high early draw weight so often lost before set shows its ugly head.
sleek:
Willie, for the last 7 or so years i have been looking for a way to do exactly what you are after. I think I have a formula that allows you to build a bow that takes no set. I have asked a few people to help me proof the formula and they are working on it. Once proofed Ill let the information be known, but I dont want to let bad info out, so please pardon my vagueness.
If you want to help, and you sound like a guy looking for the answers, you can tell me the wood you are going to use, the draw weight, and the bows length. Ill run the numbers and you buuld the bow. I find im right with about 5 to 10% margin for error. Im looking to tighten that up but some things are out of my control, wood quality, error in craftsmanship, etc.
willie:
--- Quote from: sleek on December 05, 2024, 02:52:41 pm ---Willie, for the last 7 or so years i have been looking for a way to do exactly what you are after. I think I have a formula ......you can tell me the wood you are going to use,
--- End quote ---
If I told you birch or osage, would your formua use a book value?
--- Quote ---While most would say, or its taken set due to the hinge,
--- End quote ---
but doesnt one have to know the correct bend versus "too much bend for the design"?
sleek:
--- Quote from: willie on December 05, 2024, 03:03:39 pm ---
--- Quote from: sleek on December 05, 2024, 02:52:41 pm ---Willie, for the last 7 or so years i have been looking for a way to do exactly what you are after. I think I have a formula ......you can tell me the wood you are going to use,
--- End quote ---
If I told you birch or osage, would your formua use a book value?
--- Quote ---While most would say, or its taken set due to the hinge,
--- End quote ---
but doesnt one have to know the correct bend versus "too much bend for the design"?
--- End quote ---
Yes, there are book values for each different species already available that I plug into the formula.
The idea of too much bend for the design cones from the incorrect idea tgat thickness has anything to do with draw weight. You can thin a bowout unti the bow mends into a complete circle, if it has the correct width, it will take no set.
Selfbowman:
Kevin we will get with you on one coming up. Finalizing the design.
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