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Bamboo backing sapling bow
bassman211:
I have only ever worked with American elm, and some very good bow builders claim Chinese elm is better for bow making. Elm is my favorite white wood, but even small knots on the bow's back can be problematic in my experience with the elm that I have used. With heavy belly heat treat you can reflex elm, and it will hold some reflex after tillering. In the past I have had failures from even small knots on the bow's back, but with a clean back it makes a sound bow that is a good shooter. JME
Roballa:
Thanks everyone. Great advice! Hamish - I’m in Samford Valley, Brisbane so there are a few Chinese Elms and saplings nearby.
Regarding the reflex - as per a technique I saw online (helping a sapling to dry by thinning out the belly), I used a draw knife to take the sapling belly halfway through the thickness on each limb, sealing the back and ends and leaving the handle section full thickness. While monitoring the drying process I’ve noticed it’s naturally pulled itself into a reflex. I’ve left the width profile alone for now (while drying) to avoid twisting. Is this enough reflex and/or would you heat treat anyway to ‘lock’ it in this shape?
I’ll attach a couple of pics of the sapling back and side, and sitting on a bench showing a 1.5inch reflex bend at the handle (apologies if that’s the wrong terminology!)
I’ll also send a couple of pics of my recent spotted gum board bow and late-ish tiller…
Rob
Roballa:
…and the spotted gum board bow…
Roballa:
Sorry - trying to get the hang of attaching pics!
Hopefully a couple more of the spotted gum bow. Rob
superdav95:
Looking pretty darn good! As for the boo backing on a sapling, I agree with hamish. The only other thing you could try if you are wanting to keep the crowned back of the sapling is to dish out your backing strip to match very closely. Find a boo strip that has a similar crown contour to your sapling back perhaps??? I’ve not tried this yet but it makes sense that it could work. I’ve done some boo backing strips on smaller to medium diameter tree staves but not saplings. I’ve always flattened them to matching boo strip and been fine. The other issue is to ensure you trap the back when tillering and not make your strip too thick so that it overpowers the belly wood. You will get chrystals forming in belly. Fire hardening helps with this but wood is wood and the boo strip will overpower if too thick. Getting the taper right is also important. Just a few thoughts. Best of luck
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