Main Discussion Area > Bows
Lemonwood /Degame
jameswoodmot:
Brilliant, Looks like i will start with the light poundage bow first with Ash backing with vertical growthrings, then the heavier one with the bamboo.
Hamish, thats sounds like a pretty sleek way to thin the tips of the bamboo out, my gut feeling it to start by narrowing it somewhat at the tips but not quite to the finished profile to allow some margin for error.
EA-40 seems to be the glue people use, another one that is not avaible here. I assume any slow cure good quality epoxy will work? G-flex would be my go to.
Thanks again
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: jameswoodmot on February 08, 2025, 06:04:30 pm ---Brilliant, Looks like i will start with the light poundage bow first with Ash backing with vertical growthrings, then the heavier one with the bamboo.
Hamish, thats sounds like a pretty sleek way to thin the tips of the bamboo out, my gut feeling it to start by narrowing it somewhat at the tips but not quite to the finished profile to allow some margin for error.
EA-40 seems to be the glue people use, another one that is not avaible here. I assume any slow cure good quality epoxy will work? G-flex would be my go to.
Thanks again
--- End quote ---
TitebondIII, or Cascamite* will work fine for bamboo backing, I've used both on bows over 100#.
* Cascamite is a fine white powder which you mix with water. Available in relatively small quanities.
Del
Hamish:
You could add 1/4" extra width at the tips, for a safety margin. It becomes more important if you are making narrow longbows or using recurves which can twist a bit.
You trace the same profile that you use for the outline of the boo backing, onto the belly slat. Then you use temporarily use spring clamps to align the shaped backing to the matched tracing on the belly, then reflex and wrap or clamp into shape. Because boo has a cambered surface, most guys reflex with the belly on the bottom and the backing outward. Its hard to explain, but its all set up in Torges videos on hunting the boo backed bow. Other guys probably have a similar set up, if you check out youtube. You can use the same method for hickory, ash or other flattened wood backings, on a more traditional form which has a curved profile cut into a plank, and clamp it to the plank, belly on top of backing.
Hamish:
+1 for tbIII or cascamite. I'd probably go cascamite if you can get it because it will tolerate mild heat corrections better than most other glues.
Counterintuitively G Flex would be too flexible. Instead its better to use a glue with little to no flex(Cascamite is good, as is Ea 40, and some other epoxies that dry as hard, like glass. This is especially important if you need to glue on a riser for depth at the handle, as softer flexible glues will often lift at the dip transitions.
jameswoodmot:
Cascamite it is then, will be nice to try a new glue!
Yep that makes sense about the glue up, I will probably use the rubber inner tube method is seems popular.
Now, bizarrely, I’ve just been to a friends place to help clear out his dads workshop(wood turner) and found some wood that I think might be Ipe. It looks like a cross between wenge and black walnut and is much denser than either. Density is of this piece is 865 kg/m3 if my maths is correct.
I’ve just sanded a bit and it smells sweet, nutty, chocolatey and like almonds. What do you reckon?
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