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Tri Lam Bow ....HELP

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Stoner:
Hamish thanks for the reply the curly maple may get thinned down to 1/16 and is strictly for aesthetics. The working bow is osage and hickory. As for run out there is none on the hickory sides or face. The osage has grain running end to end but has some run in & out as it tappers(typical osage) but for the most part its stays true. This is why I tried to show the grain in red in the photo, hope you can see it.

Hamish:

I'm not saying there is no way the curly maple won't work, but even if thin, it will still be taking all the tension, on the back, and is a weak link. It has the potential for the maple to "pop" like a on a really thin ringed tree stave. The hickory underneath might save it from a break, but it also might continue the break into the hickory. If you want a durable bow, I would leave it out.

3/16" hickory is also a little thick, for a backing if you are making a wide limbed flatbow, in a 40-70lbs bow. I'd go 1/8".

I'd swap out the curly maple, use a strip 1/16"-1/8" of a core wood to sandwich between the back and belly. Walnut or some other contrasting wood looks good.

willie:

--- Quote from: Stoner on February 28, 2025, 02:56:25 pm --- I have tried 3 1/2 to 4 times now and failed. With 2 of them shooting then for no reason they said nope not today.

--- End quote ---

please describe your failures in more detail.  a pic of the bend you are tillering for would help also

Stoner:
Well your right about the maple being a weak link this is what happened last time. So I carved all the maple and hickory off and tried it again from flat sawn to quarter sawn.

Stoner:
This was tillering

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