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Hickory Processing ??s
willie:
look at
https://www.windy.com/-Humidity-rh?rh,2025072109,37.597,-107.227,5,m:eQJaddR
for differences between day and night humidities
keep the staves in a "cool" box in a shady spot
we have had similar problems drying fish too fast as the filets become "case hardened" on the outside.
a baby humidifier on a humidistat in the "smoke house" worked well
(the "smoke house" is more for keeping the flies out, and only gets smoke and heat on a very limited basis)
ssrhythm:
So...I think I'm going to kerf those 1/2 logs with my skill saw to try to ensure I get as many staves as possible by encouraging the wood to split where I kerf it. I've never done this before, so
1. how deep do I need to run the blade of my saw? I'm hoping "not too deep," as I can already imagine the binding/bucking that will occur trying to skill saw a curved. uneven surface.
I bought a Thermometer and Humidity indicator for the shop, and my RH in there is pretty consistent at ~40%. I'm going to install something that will let me hang my staves above my work area in there and make that 40% area become my friend.
Any specific advice on kerfing is welcome and appreciated.
willie:
I would use a heavier blade wirh some set maybe specified for ripping. problem is with 7-1/4 is most blades are "combination"
keep the front of the saw table in hard contact with the work even if you have to lift the rear of the table up some sometimes
pappys idea about quartering and splitting off heartwood would be the best, and you can still kerf it if you wish
Eric Krewson:
I used a carbide tipped blade when I kirf hickory and go as deep as my saw will cut or about 3".
Pappy:
I use a chain saw, takes a little more wood but just easier for me to handle. Like I said before I do always split off the belly, it will usually split right down the grain between the sap and heart wood and make the 1/4 split split truer. :)
Pappy
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