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Pat B:
A good rule for a wood bow is make it two times the draw length plus 10% so your 55" would fit into that range.  :OK
 be sure your tillering is spot on.

M2A:
Those dimensions sound practical. I have an Osage and red elm in my shop, each about 40 pounds, that just need bells and whistles added and that’s about the dimensions they both have. My handles usually end up around 5/8 thick. I would guess with ash it would be just over to achieve the bend/stiffness I like at those dimensions provided it’s good dense stuff. Leave your 3/4” thickness in your handle until your out to 18 inches on your tiller then you could start to work some movement into that area slowly. I like to break the bow into thirds and taper the outer thirds.I do think 57” ntn would be more forgiving if you have the length but 55 ttt I’d doable with good material and a spot on tiller.
Mike

legend:
Thanks Pat and Mike for your latest advice, this forum is a great help for someone like myself who hasnt a massive amount of experience in these things .

JW_Halverson:

--- Quote from: legend on October 02, 2025, 11:28:57 am ---Thanks Pat and Mike for your latest advice, this forum is a great help for someone like myself who hasnt a massive amount of experience in these things .

--- End quote ---

That is THE REASON THIS FORUM EXISTS!!!

There are a lot of us that make few bows anymore, but love passing it along. I am forever inviting someone over to make their own bow in my garage with me. And I am certainly NOT alone in doing this. Some guys, like Pappy, invite hundreds of people to show up for a long weekend and hundreds of bows get made!!! (It's called the Tennessee Classic. Ostensibly an open archery shoot, lots of us just show up and hang out in what has to be the best staffed, friendliest, and most expert bow shop in the world.)

legend:
Nice to know , and the way it should be and the skills should never die .

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