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Tillering through Entire Draw

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Burnsie:
Is it possible to keep "correct" tiller at all draw lengths as your tiller progresses from brace, inch by inch to the desired draw length.
I get tiller looking spot on at brace height, then when I continue and get good tiller at  progressively longer draw lengths, I often find that when I go back and check at brace, the tiller has gotten wonky. I have to be careful to not start chasing tiller back and forth between draw lengths. It seems to happen more on staves that have some character (dips and bends)

RyanY:
Yes but a couple things to keep in mind. If the thickness tapers along the length of the limb, the same amount of wood removal, think an even thickness scrape, will be disproportionately more in thin areas than thick areas. Also, differences between earlywood and late wood can create easy spots for hinges to occur. As you remove wood, always do your best to make sure the taper is even without thin or thick spots.

Badger:
      The reason for the change is the bow is taking set. My heart always sinks a little bit when I see the tiller at brace height change like that. I do almost all of my tillering at brace and then touch it up during the last few inches of draw. It is a good feeling when it doesn't change.

Pat B:
Good tiller is only apparent at full draw. If your full draw tiller is good the rest shouldn't matter. IMO
 I do try to have good tiller at all stages of the tillering process but with selfbows it's not always possible because of the irregularity of the wood. It's at full draw that it matters.

Pappy:
I agree with Pat to some extent but have found if the brace tiller stays the same most of the time the full draw tiller will be good also, like Steve I hate I when it changes much. Pappy

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