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Pat B:
Static arrow spine is measured on an arrow of 28", on a spine tester with its uprights spaced at 26" and with a 125 gr point. For every inch over 28" you can subtract 5# and the opposite for arrows cut less that 28". More or less weight at the tip(point) will decrease or increase the spine accordingly but I don't know those actual values. Pat

markinengland:
Natural shoot arrows grow with a taper that makes them very forgiving to shoot. I don't know what grows near you but hazel can be picked and made into arrows that are cheap and very durable. The naturual taper means that a little experimentation will give you an arrow that works for you depending on where you cut it.
if you are dead set on dowelling you will have a somewhat limited choice of diameters and woods but too stiff spine can be made up for by extra long arrows. An arrow that spines to around the draw weight of your bow or ten pounds lighter should be about right. At around 25lbs 1/4 dowel may be the one to try first. Garden cane is another good potential arrow shaft.
Mark in England

Pat B:
Mark, I agree with you about natural shoots for arrows. I have been using sourwood, a local native under story tree, for arrows for the last 3 years and love them. Cane is definitely another option that are less spine sensitive. With the natural taper of hardwood shoot shafts and cane you can use an arrow that is 10# heavier spine weight from my experience.        Pat

huntertrapper:
thats great to see a real yungin on here, ive used red ak dowels shot from a 25 pound bow seem to be fine for spine, i guess it could change for the bow your usin but mine work well.... um... anyway if your feathers are ok they should fly good, they are cheap, good luck they are a lot easier then cutting and scraping and more cutting! :o

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