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Wych Elm reflex deflex

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jameswoodmot:
So the biggest issue, which I didn’t expect, was that it came out of the heat treatment with basically perfect tiller. I’m used to chasing the tiller back and fourth and struggling to reach my desired draw weight but when I strung this one it probably pulled 60 odd lbs and I just didn’t shave the limbs down enough quickly enough and I just pulled it too much too soon. Lost most of my reflect and the tips are now an inch or so behind the handle and we’re not at full brace height yet. I’ll shoot it in with a 4” brace height and see how it’s holds up just as an experiment but I suspect this one will go on the never to be finished pile.
I understand that tips behind the handle isn’t that big of a deal as far as shooting goes but I’m not making bows to shoot them, I’m making bows because I enjoy making bows and the unbraced profile is really important to me. Plenty of lessons learned (and relearned). 60” is too short!

simk:
James. the d/r design you are trying is extremly hard to achieve on a selfbow. These reflexed levers always mostly pull straight over time.
With wooden bows its better to have more static reflex towards the outers.
I dont say its impossible but you need the wood and experience. Elm isnt too bad, osage muxh better and a bamboo backing is helpful too. And yes, should be at least 64" ntn. I dont make these anymore. Seems more suitable to a glassbow.
Good luck!

Hamish:
Worth putting some sinew on the back?

sleek:
Thats my thoughts as well.

jameswoodmot:
I’m fairly reluctant to sinew a bow that has already had excessive compression, I’ve got some more short pieces of elm and I’d rather tiller out to maybe 15” or so and then sinew and continue to tiller after to try and avoid that initial set.

That’s really interesting Simk, I will certainly listen to your advice on that one. I have some Ipe and bamboo so I’ll give it a go with that and see how it works out. Your bows are incredible!

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