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Question on tillering a snake bow?

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Pappy:
Is that the back or belly we are looking at ?? I always am very careful to follow the longitudinal grain and be sure you have no run off in the working part of the limbs. Also very careful in the larger snakes when tillering , they for some reason take a hinge there if not careful. Also be careful when trying to take out propeller in them areas, little at a time or the can open up on the grain. Done a bunch of, some work out great and some don’t , just always take it slow, much slower than a normal straight limb bow, they can do strange things but love them and the challenge. Pappy

Eric Krewson:
I have made a lot of snaky bows, I leave the limb thickness square on the sides. I make my bows with slightly rounded belly, almost flat in the wider part of the limbs and more rounded past the taper and in the last foot of the limbs.

This just out from the fade;



Mid limb



A foot in from the tip;



And 6" from the tip;

Mo_coon-catcher:
I would keep the limbs even thickness along the width. That’s what I try doing on the ones I’ve done and haven’t had any trouble yet

Kyle

NonBacked:
Arvin, are you suggesting that the extreme outside edges of the curves be thinned to force the strength of the wood (thickness & power) to be closer to the bow’s centerline (tip tp tip)? If that’s the case, dealing with limb twist would have to be “balanced” from side to side (curve to curve). If it worked, there would be a definite increase in efficiency. Interesting idea!

Selfbowman:
Nonbacked that’s exactly what I’m talking about. I done it on a couple bows. Bob Barnes has one. Maybe he can measure the edges of the bends and shed some light on what I’m saying. Hello Bob! 🤠🤠

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