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Quote from: superdav95 on February 20, 2026, 05:14:17 pmHey gang. Just a quick update on this little bow. I am posting a short video link here for those interested in burnishing sinew covering. Depending on how fast it dries in your area and climate will determine this. Here in Alberta mine was sufficiently dry for me to burnish mi e smooth. In the video you can see me showing a smooth piece of steel rod to do this. I’ve done this with a coffee mug. Anything smooth will work. I also use thinned glue. Some use warm water for this but I like the gap filling aspect of the thinned glue worked in. It creates a very smooth and compressed top layer finish. Sanding it down works too to give a smooth finish but this adds the benefit of compressing the fibers down. yes! I just re read the entire thread its great. I remember reading this years ago and and pats method here is really where I got the idea to use wraps in the first place. I did try it btw and found it gave similar results as pat and others did. I heated mine much the same way and ended up doing some experimenting with it after it was all said and done to get to what I do now with wrapped sinew. Why did i make changes to this process??? 1. I found the diagonal wrap lines were hard to get rid of once dried. it was somewhat doable with some work but not easy. the grooves were deeper in spots using the sheets. 2. it leaves a heavy crown. If this is what you want then great but if it is not what your after then its hard to control the crown finish when dried. The few ive done with this method i was somewhat able to control crown by heating and massaging with my fingers the sinew to be more flat but found it was a little inconsistent. 3. the wraps did stick a bit on me. The great thing about Pats method is that its great for using up shorter sinew strands and controlling excess glue. What I changed in Pats method. I use horse leg wraps that are a little elastic and very thin to minimise diagonal lines in the sinew. I found the bed sheet strips would stick to the sinew on me sometimes and needed repairs. not a huge deal I guess but would rather not have to repair and rework. the horse leg wraps have never stuck on me yet. not sure why that is entirely but it may have something to do with slight tacky coating on the wrap. Im also able to work things a bit with my fingers still too while wrapped. like the bed sheet strips it is also breathable. In the beginning I would apply a little heat with my heat gun on low only and watch the excess glue ooze out a little if i think i may have used a little too much glue. however these days though I don't heat it when wrapped as the last number of times nothing came out at all as far as excess glue. I personally think there are some misnomers on the amount of hide needed. in fact some sinew backed bows used zero hide glue other then maybe a few size coats on the back prior to sinew. On these examples a few posted on here the sinew was chewed and softened in the mouth slightly to get soft prior to laying it down. no glue. There is some thinking that the saliva generates a glue type matrix with the sinew to form a similar matrix as if glue were used. this is a debatable topic for sure as ive only tried it once myself but i know others here on pa have made nice bows using the chew method. My point here is that sinew needs far less glue then we sometimes think. The addition of equal parts (mass in glue/sinew) is the rule of thumb for good ratio. I have come to realize that this is not the case in my personal opinion. in fact i have found that about a 1/3rd mass of glue to sinew is still very safe. so how do i measure this??? Its hard to be sure but I do do my best to take notes and keep notes as to mass and weights start to finish. generally speaking most of my finished bows with sinew backing have the original weight of the dry weight sinew plus approx 1/3rd for dry glue weight. surprisingly sometimes less. When fully dried Ive had no issues with sinew holding up. Its strong stuff. for a mental visual consider this, I was making my strips to prepare for a bow and had laid out all my bundles like normal to prepare to be dunked in my glue and then laid down as normal. I had finished backing the bow and had a bundle left over that i didnt use that was intended as a possible handle overlap. My left over bundle had been sitting there all combed and shaped and left overnight and dried. in the morning i found the dried bundle had shrunk a bit and was very solid. again i repeat no glue! I could not pull it apart. i could not bend and break it up either. it was very firm and solid bundle. I had posted about it here I think at the time and was surprised at how strong it was without glue. Again to my point It may be argued that less glue is better if not at least a benefit to contributing less mass where its not needed. Im sure there will be those that may disagree with this but I invite you to try and dry a clean bundle and see for yourself. I ended up soaking the bundle and reuse on another project. Im realizing this is a long answer/reply to your comment Willie! anyway my point is that Pats method is an adapted version of what i do now. when i clean and comb my sinew and dunk it into my glue i wring out most of the glue. I also have used a small paint brush and put a light coat of glue as i comb the bundle and it also works. similar results. I let the bundle gel a bit before pulling off my shaping board to lay it down. I use warm water only with a heat lamp sometimes to assist in shaping and blending. Like pat I also lay the bundle and work in down with my fingers to rid the little crackling of air pockets that may exits. once its barley gelled I add and thin layer of brushed on glue. when wrapping with the horse wrap i again work it a little with my fingers. this does not interfere with the wrap or it sticking to the sinew. Ill leave this till the next day and unwrap. The burnishing is the finish touch to get it compressed and very smooth. anyway Pats method may give similar results in the end and maybe with more practice i would get better at it perhaps but i found the finished dried weight of the bow minus my sinew added was more then 1/3 glue mass added if that makes sense. It was more like 50/50. sorry for the long winded response and thanks for linking Pats thread. He was the inspiration for what I do now. There are more ways then one to reach the goal in the end. cheersps, Our alberta move involved us buying a home here and so residency was pretty quick. our health coverage overlap from Ontario took a few months but that was to be expected. Did you see the method posted by a fellow Ontarian? It seemed to come out rather smooth at the outset? http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43246.0.htmlJust curious, How long do they make you wait before you can claim to be Albertan?
Hey gang. Just a quick update on this little bow. I am posting a short video link here for those interested in burnishing sinew covering. Depending on how fast it dries in your area and climate will determine this. Here in Alberta mine was sufficiently dry for me to burnish mi e smooth. In the video you can see me showing a smooth piece of steel rod to do this. I’ve done this with a coffee mug. Anything smooth will work. I also use thinned glue. Some use warm water for this but I like the gap filling aspect of the thinned glue worked in. It creates a very smooth and compressed top layer finish. Sanding it down works too to give a smooth finish but this adds the benefit of compressing the fibers down.
Hi Dave, just wondering why your photos can't be viewed in my region (the UK)?
in the morning i found the dried bundle had shrunk a bit and was very solid. again i repeat no glue! I could not pull it apart. i could not bend and break it up either.
Quote in the morning i found the dried bundle had shrunk a bit and was very solid. again i repeat no glue! I could not pull it apart. i could not bend and break it up either.this link points to the middle of a long conversation touching on multiple topics at the same timehttp://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,63182.msg888073.html#msg888073, there is some historical evidence for twisted bundles used without hide glue and discussion of such in following pages in that thread