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breaking tooooo many

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Cromm:
Good for you Grumpy!!!!
I've found that with the brass point's that if i taper the shafts all the way then that's too much and they don't sit on the end,so i maked on the taper tool how far i needed to go down and that worked for me....... Hope that helps a little? :P
A little bit of sanding may be needed on the ends,so your tool will fit.. ::)
Because i've had the samething happen to me with the 11/32 POC shafts.

billy:
Jey Jape,

I don't like Port Orford cedar either.  The damn arrows are straight, but just aren't durable worth a damn.  I prefer to use rivercane (a native bamboo to the SE United States).  When you make your own shafts, you really have control over length, spine, etc.  My rivercane shafts fly just as good as the cedar (if not better) and they are much more durable. 

mullet:
  Cane, Tonkin, arrow boo or sasha boo is all I hunt with and 3-D shoot. The only shafts of wood I've been happy with is some barreled tapered pine shafts I get from a gentleman in Alabama that sells shafts for a living. Somebody can PM me if they want to know who it is.

George Tsoukalas:
jape, I think you are having arrow flight issues. The arrows  should fly straight to the target with no porpoising or fishtailing. You should see nothing but fletch all the way in. My guess is they are way overspined. 45# shafts don't usually shoot well out of
#35 bows even when left full length. Bare shaft tuning isn't of much use with wooden arrows. You probably didn't want to hear this. My site may help you with tuning and making arrows. Jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/

Bueskytter:
I'm really surprised about this. I've been using POC shafts for about a year on a 60lb longbow, I've never had a single one break. Bamboo is a great material for shafts and is nigh indestructible, but it's not exactly a traditional material outside of Asia and Sub-saharan Africa.

Have you tried Sitka Spruce shafts? Their reputation is generally very good and I've had no problems with them.

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