Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Fiberglass takedown sleeve
Badbill:
Very impressive! ;)
Tommy D:
I like this idea - just one question - would it not be better to have the fixed glass sleeve on the other half of the bow (ie the one with the shorter back side) so that the removable piece is the one with the longer back section - or does this not matter?
madcrow:
Tommy D
Here is a doctored version of one of the pics.
I made one like you are asking about and did not like the results. There was more pops and cracks coming from the handle area and the occasional muffled smack of wood when the bow was released. When the bow is strung and being drawn, there is alot of pressure in the handle side. The blue area offers a bigger chunk of wood of "free" wood to handle the pressure. Also, if the handle is fixed to the other half of the bow, the angle of the cut will act like a ramp ( red arrow) and it would be easier for the handle to slip some and possibly come out of the sleeve. That is not a good thing when the bow is at full draw. You can look at it like this, with the handle fixed like in the build along, when the bow is being drawn, the cut in the wood is being pushed together, if the handle is fixed to the other side the cut in the wood is being pulled apart. I hope this helps.
Kegan:
Great build along! I read the PA article, but this cleared up several questions I had. How strong a bow would this hold up for though? WOuld just making the epoxy/mesh sleeve a little thicker be enough for a 70-75# bow?
madcrow:
I have been making them 1/8" thick for 60 # bows, and have not had any splits or cracks. Another 1/16" would probably be good just for some added insurance.
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