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how i make simple primitive arrows from shoots....

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D. Tiller:
Interesting! Never thought of that before. So on small diameter shafts ust the wedge to make an oversized groove on the nock and the point ends. Makes sence to me! Unfortunatly I'm working with rose shoots and there is a huge pith in the center of them so I have to ues hardwood nock inserts and foreshafts. I like the  foreshaft idea so that if you break the foreshaft you just replace it and your shaft is still ready to use. I will be using your technique on some of my smaller diameter syringa shafts.

Cromm:
Nice.....

michbowguy:
use this style with rose shoots as well, but just trim off the tiny bit of walls that has a grove in it...
or just leave it! the inner wood of rose is very soft and it will eventually rubb out ok in the long run anyway.

if this isnt good enough for ya, take a thorn and poke and pull and clean out pith... then take the thorn and use a bit of hide glue white glue what ever and just push the thorn down into the pithy section then cut the rest off.
and then carve a self nock, but i wouldnt worry about pith,as the walls on the nock are just for the folks that "need" to have the arrow "snap","stay" in place on the string.

heck with the right shooting style you only need a slight indent or a locator cut in just so the string doesnt "roll" out of the indent when shot.

lots of options my man, just try some and see what ones you like.
jamie

D. Tiller:
So you think the walls on wild rose shoots are strong enough to hold up to the pounding? So just glue a slug of hard wood in the rose shoot where the pith is?

David T

ZanderPommo:
if you use a broadhead, might splitting the shaft for the point stop the arrow from having a smooth transition from point to shaft, thus hindering penetration into an animal?
also does the wide nock hit the arrow shelf or side of the bow after released?

Zander

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