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Sinew Backed, Double Curve Bow

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JackCrafty:
Yes, I prefer a rectangular cross section.  However, I don't remove the crown from the back of the bow.  If I start with a small diameter sapling, the cross section will semi-circular.  If I start with a large diameter log, and split out a stave, the cross section will be rectangular.

Hickory does well with either cross section (yes, leave the back rounded. ;D)

tsa yo ga:
Thanks for the quick reply!  When bending the handle, what method do you use.  I have yet to make forms and have limited clamps.  I was thinking of doing the old timey way, maybe stand on it or strap it down in the middle somehow?  thanks again for everyones patience with a greenhorn.

JackCrafty:
After steaming, I bend the bow with my knee and pull back on the limbs.  I hold the bow in position until it cools (about a minute or so).  Then I tie a cord to both tips so that the bow looks braced...except in reverse.  I leave it this way for several days...or until the hickory is dry.  Then I steam and shape the limbs....again using my knee.  I also use a "bow wrench" that is similar to an arrow straightening tool but much bigger (It's just a section of a 5" diameter log with a notch cut in the side).

I have to admit, though, the hickory I've used has not held reflex very well....especially in the handle.

tsa yo ga:
When you get to this step, is the bow basicly roughed out?  I think I read that you do not get the tiller completely finished before bending, or do you do that after its bent.  If it holds some bend i'll be happy, even if it shoots i'll still be happy.

JackCrafty:
Yes, the bow is roughed out before bending.  I personally like to get it roughed out as close as possible to the final dimensions.

I rough out the bow, then I floor tiller it (to get it bending enough to be braced without difficulty), then I shape (bend) the bow, then let it dry out (several days, weeks, or months), then finish tillering.

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