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problems with broadhead flight

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Kegan:
I would do so mroe often (glue on risers) if my glue joints weren't so attrocious ;D! I like the freedom of amterial it gives to make it fit right. Most of the time, though, leather winds up as the handle material. More forgiving to my crappy glue-ups :D. As for the tiller, a circular, with a stiff center, tiller seems best for bows under man's height. Bending tips, bending just outside the fades. All the super stiff ones I've made came out way under weight.

ballista:
 yeah, likewise, the riser bows ive made have all been about 20 pounds. this one's a monster, im hoping this one will be a beauty. so you wouldn't change the tiller a whole lot? i made a recurve last week with glued on padouk recurve bits, the riser popprd right off.... obviously a little too much bend in the handle i guess. well im going to get a camera this week, I'll post the bow within the next few days- the handle is kinda a knockoff of a savannah longbow, amazingly comfortable.yea, glue ups are hard if you don't have a plainer, i need to get one myself. -jimmy

Kegan:
To help with that leave the wood under the limbs thicker (about 18" or more) and really make the fades concave. Helps me.

ballista:
 oh, so there is alot of bend in the fades? I thought it was the other way around, but it does make sense. oh, I think i know why my consistancy was off on my selfbow, do you shoot underspine arrows if the bow aint centershot? I was thinking maybe its too stiff to bend arouund the riser, but thats just a thought. thanks, -jimmy

Kegan:
I meant to type more than an 1/8" thicker than the wood jsut outside the fades. Resulting in stiff fades, but a more circular tiller to the limbs. But yes, for non centershot bows the spine is under. I'm shooting 60-65# arrows for my 76# longbow.

And I managed to knock a bottle cap out of the air last night with that set up :).

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