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looking for dowel rod arrow tutorial

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Kegan:

--- Quote from: jackcrafty on October 14, 2008, 12:59:55 pm ---Yes, I think weight is more important than spine.  However, the wider the bow's handle, the greater the importance of spine.

In the old days, before spine testers, arrows were always matched by weight.

--- End quote ---

I think spine is more important.

I make almost all of my arrows from birch dowels I order from a crafts place in Texas. After culling the really bad grain or super-limber ones, I try to spine them up into a batch (be that matching or scraping the center). The weight varies about 50 or so grains, but still shoot the same out to 50+ yards.

Making arrows from dowesl is the sma eas making them from ordered cedar or spruce. Unless you want to taper them to improve flight. Other than that, it's just fletching, nocking, and finishing.

scattershot:
I would add that they make great srrows, but be sure to flex them before you make arrows out of them. Some of them have weak spots that you need to discover before you shoot them! In my experience, the 5/16" dowels run in the mid forties, and the 3/8"ers are around 80 and up, as a very general rule.

Good luck!

woodsman1031:
Thanks everyone!

Kegan:
I've also discorvered that drilling 23/64" and 11/32" holes in a piece of angle iron or whatever, and then "drilling" the dowel through with a power drill will drop those 3/8" dowels down to "normal" shaft size to help spining and what not. They're also easy to taper with a small handle plane, jsut watch the grain.

cummins:

--- Quote from: Kegan on October 18, 2008, 03:36:15 pm ---I've also discorvered that drilling 23/64" and 11/32" holes in a piece of angle iron or whatever, and then "drilling" the dowel through with a power drill will drop those 3/8" dowels down to "normal" shaft size to help spining and what not. They're also easy to taper with a small handle plane, jsut watch the grain.

--- End quote ---
I like that tip Mahalo Ron

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