Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: bow101 on June 14, 2013, 06:28:11 pm
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Just shooting in my new bow today. Shot about 25 arrows and 98% of them are going left of the target. The bow seems ok no limb twist, no hand shock.
Can't remember the paradox invovled here.. ??? ???
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Assuming you are shooting right handed, the spine on you arrows is likely too high for the bow.
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True enough I'm right handed. They are some new arrows, I know they are way to thick 13/32 inch. I'll make some new ones in the next couple days. Thought I could hog them down to 11/32 by sanding them, but way to much sanding...... :o
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According to many people on this site, a heavier point will lower the spine of the arrow...
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Yep arrows spines to heavy, either add a heavier point or thin them down.
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You can reduce the dinamic spine by sanding the center of the shaft. Longer shafts help too. For each inch over 28" you can reduce the effective spine weight by 5#. So a 30" arrow that spines at 60# will shoot like a 50# spined arrow. You can reduce the effective spine by adding more weight at the point end. I think it is 5# for each 15 to 20 grains over 128 grains.
These number relate to the industry standard for wood arrow shafting but can also be used with hardwood shoots and shafts, cane and "primitive" type arrows.
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Yep arrows spines to heavy, either add a heavier point or thin them down.
Afraid arrows are to heavy as is around 600.
You can reduce the dinamic spine by sanding the center of the shaft. Longer shafts help too. For each inch over 28" you can reduce the effective spine weight by 5#. So a 30" arrow that spines at 60# will shoot like a 50# spined arrow. You can reduce the effective spine by adding more weight at the point end. I think it is 5# for each 15 to 20 grains over 128 grains.
These number relate to the industry standard for wood arrow shafting but can also be used with hardwood shoots and shafts, cane and "primitive" type arrows.
Ya there is another tip I'll probably take on, sand the center of the shafts. Don't have any longer ones, :) may have to get my arrow stretcher out..... ???
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Here is a simple fix, kant your bow, if you are shooting off the side of the bow you need to tilt the bow slightly to the side, even with really perfect spined to match arrows you will shoot to the left with a bow thatis not center cut.
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As was stated,you can sand the center,to reduce spine,but only so far.If a large amount of spine reduction is needed,you can rear taper the shaft and then sand the center portion to create a full tapered shaft.
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As was stated,you can sand the center,to reduce spine,but only so far.If a large amount of spine reduction is needed,you can rear taper the shaft and then sand the center portion to create a full tapered shaft.
I make kids shafts out of 5/16 cedar that way. Only the last 2 inches is 5/16. It really lightens up the spine and weight. Just taper them out.
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What IndinaGuy said. The arrow is going to shoot left if you hold the bow straight up and it isn't center shot,most selfbows aren't. :)
Pappy
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Thanks for the tips guys:::: How the nelly can you Kant the bow when you are pulling 50#....? ???
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I cant most of mine at about 45 degree,each are a little different, It will move the arrow to the right if the arrow rest is right on top of your hand or if shooting off your knuckle and high right if the arrow is elevated up off your hand. :)
Pappy
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Being left handed and right eyed I never cared weather my groupings were left or right of my intended aiming point. If they flew good and true to themselves, no wobbling or porpoising, I just adapted to what the set up wanted to do and after a few rounds of shooting we would be as one. Being left handed teaches you that adapting to adopt is a necessity from the get go. On the other had, if a set of newly completed set of arrows had bad flight characteristics in a certain bow I would make another set for the bow and another bow for the set that wouldn't fly to my satisfaction. It was a great excuse for building an inventory of both bows and arrows. ;D
Robby
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I agree if they aren't flying good,no wobble,all you see is nock then you got other problems ,but if they fly good and just hit left, [right hand shooter] I cant the bow a little more,I am right handed so if you are left handed it would be oppsit. :) I think some point of aim shooters tune the arrow to hit where the tip is pointed,not sure ,never shot that way.
Pappy
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Yes canting has always helped me move the arrow to the right a bit.Being right handed.If ya really get good you can shoot from the hip....Like a friend of mine does once in a while.I hav'nt practiced that way yet though.What Pat said is dead right too.
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""""Thanks for the tips guys:::: How the nelly can you Kant the bow when you are pulling 50#....?""""
I kant the bow also at about 45 degrees and my hunting bow is 68 pounds, quite a bit less than in my younger days! ;) If you dont kant it I dont care how good your arrows are you will shoot to the left to some degree (assuming your right handed) if shot off the side of the bow, the hand, or knuckle.
Eric
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(assuming your right handed)...Yup
shot off the side of the bow...Yup Then I'll Kant................ :)
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I wanna know more about this shooting a bow from the hip thing!
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Holding the bow from your waist out.Not coming to anchor by your face.Usually not as long a draw.Like shooting from your chest only lower.The bow is laying horizontal from you as you draw.Extremely canted.Not the most accurate way to shoot,but like anything else practice can make close to perfect.
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I was working with a guy today on his shooting and he experienced arrows hitting left (right-handed). Reason for him was that his anchor point was floating out in space away from his face a good 3-4 inches. Bringing the anchor into the corner of his mouth brought the arrows to where he was thinking they should go.
Could be arrow spine, but I thought I would throw that out there too.
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Sleek, the "shooting from the hip" as it has been called is the way most Plains Indians shot their bows, an anchor somewhere near the center of the chest or the armpit. the anchor was usually a floating anchor and used with snap shooting, meaning when full draw was acheived arrow was loosed, very accurate at close range with practice.
Eric