Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: shackleton on March 19, 2018, 02:37:50 pm
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So I started my 1st bow today and I was using a Farrier's combo rasp.I was only using the coarse side today but I was a little disappointed in the amount of wood I could take off.That said this is the 1st time using this tool and maybe this is the best I can expect but I was wondering is there any that are better as far as a coarse rasp.I saw Nicholson #49 on 3Rivers archery site.Would this be better ?
Scott
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Shinto rasps are a good replacement for the farries rasp the make quick controlable work on wood , for cabinet rasp I switched from Nicholson to Grobet the stay sharp much longer & cut smoother !
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Shinto rasps are a good replacement for the farries rasp the make quick controlable work on wood , for cabinet rasp I switched from Nicholson to Grobet the stay sharp much longer & cut smoother !
I was looking at rasps on Woodcraft site...would a saw rasp as a opposed to a regular rasp be what I'm looking for??
Scott
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If a Farrier's rasp disappoints you I doubt any other rasp will make you much happier. You probably aren't using it properly.
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...or expecting too much.
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Most guys usaly use some kind of coarse rasp for removing wood ruff & fast the shinto saw rasp fits that bill the only down side its a flat rasp with no half round & somthing thats a little more surgical for removal like a cabinet makers rasp which usaly is a half round style for working into fades , every body has there own preferance of what they use I can only speak to what I like , also a card scraper or assorted card scrappers are valuble for scraping limbs and evening them up !
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I am a big fan of the farrier's rasp. I do the rough out with a hatchet or machete. and its all rasp from there till floor tiller then scraper from floor tiller to finished bow. Removing wood slowly will save you a lot of time in the long run. Going too fast has cost me a lot of bow wood and wasted time.
Hope that helps.
Msturm
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I am a big fan of the farrier's rasp. I do the rough out with a hatchet or machete. and its all rasp from there till floor tiller then scraper from floor tiller to finished bow. Removing wood slowly will save you a lot of time in the long run. Going too fast has cost me a lot of bow wood and wasted time.
Hope that helps.
Msturm
Sounds like its more my beginner impatience then the rasp ;D
Scott
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Go slow. Slow is good.
There are buildalongs on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
Jawge
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Go slow. Slow is good.
There are buildalongs on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
Jawge
[/quote
Thanks George.
Scott
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A surform plane with a round bottom removed wood faster than a ferrier's rasp. I use both depending on the wood.
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If I need to go faster than a farrier's rasp, it's to the band saw. But, faster work means faster mistakes too. Slow down, listen to the wood, enjoy the journey.
Kyle
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I will second the Shinto rasp.....it is by far my favorite rough/fast wood tool. I use the bandsaw to cut out the front profile I am looking for and the Shinto to adjust width and thickness until I am happy with the floor tiller. Then it is to a heavy scapper I purchased from Ken Vilars of Villars Custom Bows to work out the final tiller. Now the quickest but it keeps me from taking off too much.
Bill
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Shinto saw rasp from me, too; flat and half round dreadnought rasps/files are handy too.
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I got a Nicholson #49 and it eats through wood very quickly. I also have a Shinto, Sureform, and 4-way rasp (as well as various rounded and flat files). You will find uses for all of them!
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Now, not all ferriers rasps are created equal. I bought one from a local farm store that felt sharp but I think the tooth angle was wrong or something, as it was horrid at removing wood and plugged up every stroke. Replaced it with a diamond brand and the difference was night and day. The local mill sells some that the brand starts with a B I think but they have three different models, one is very aggressive even for a coarse ferriers rasp, that will be my next rasp.
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Shinto rasp is a too worth owning.
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What different brands of farriers rasps are out there ? I'm about due for a new one!.
Hawkdancer
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I bought a box of new old stock Nicholson USA made farriers rasps several years ago. They are twice as thick as a normal farriers rasp. I've been using one since then and it is still as sharp as the first time I used it.
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I too wish I had a more aggressive rasp. Mine is pretty aggressive comparatively, but I doubt there is anything that is as aggressive as I want. Maybe I will just have to keep experimenting. I would like a tool that removes wood somewhere between a band saw and a cabinet scraper. I've tried a couple of things: Drawknife, Rasp, Spokeshave, cabinet scraper. The draw knife is the best if you learn how to control it, but it is practically unusable if you have to remove wood around a knot in an even fashion. Maybe if I had a shave horse I could learn to do it, but I'm restricted in the direction of travel that I can pull the blade. The Rasp is about as fast as the scraper but less fatiguing. I've tried the spokeshave but haven't had much success with it. It has the same problems as the draw knife, but I did just get it and it probably needs to be sharpened.
I still want to try a Shinto rasp, and good surform and see how they compare. I also want to try a large sharp hand plane and see how that does. I would also contest that not all rasps of the same type are created equal. I bought a "very coarse" Nicholson rasp from my local woodwork store, but it was worse than the "medium-coarse" one I had of another brand. I still would like to try the Nicholson cabinet rasp #49 but don't have the money for it now. If you have a Very aggressive rasp I would encourage you to post the type, brand, and model number so we can share in your find.
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Just ordered a #49 Nicholson rasp from 3 Rivers archery.See how it works.
Scott
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keep us updated. tell us how it compares.
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A surform plane with a round bottom removed wood faster than a ferrier's rasp. I use both depending on the wood.
I have yet to see a surform that could come even close to being close to a good farriers rasp. I like bellotta they remove wood like a sun of a gun
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The Shinto seems to be a great tool, and I mean to get one. I just got my first farriers rasp and it HOGS off wood pretty fast on the fine side for me. The coarse side straight shreds half- green wood. I paid 28.00, but a friend owned the shop and he was closing down, so I think I got a deal.
For real, name brand, good, sharp, half round rasps, you gotta spend a few bucks. I'm still using one I paid $48.00 on close-out for, and to replace it I'd expect to cost me at least $65.00.
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My Preference,,in a Farriers rasp,,is a Save Edge..
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My Preference,,in a Farriers rasp,,is a Save Edge..
I also have a Save Edge. Works great. Way faster than my Shinto or anything else I've used.
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I have a Ferrier buddy who gave me a handfull of Save Edge rasp and i like them for really rough removal. However, the Shinto rasp was a game changer for me. Its double sided course and medium. My absolute favorite. I hated the stanley sure form, but to each their own.
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My Preference,,in a Farriers rasp,,is a Save Edge..
Traxx, you have worked with horses for some time haven't you?? I would imagine you know the best ferries rasps?
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I've been using farriers rasps from a neighbor friend of mine 3 miles away that is a farrier.Could'nt tell ya the brand name thogh off hand.Even a good used one hogs wood off good enough for me.
Using a rasp helps me get a feel for how dense the wood I'm working on is.
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A farriers rasp for me, also. If I want to really take off wood quick, I know, don't even want to hear it, I pull out the circular sander with 40 grit pad. And yes, I can floor tiller with it. :)
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There is al old hardware store near my house where the guy still has his rasps in stock from the 1950's. Excellent quality. A little coarser than the nicholson 49 but they stay sharp and work very well. He sells them to me for $19.00. Same price tag still on them from the 1950's.
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Lucky!
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The Shinto certainly like an looks interesting weapon to have in the arsenal, especially for the price.
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I got my Shinto from Lee Valley. It came with the handle. I found that the handle was too tall and the rasp kept trying to roll over on it's side and digging in. I sent the handle back for a refund and made a handle like a normal file handle. Works way better now :D And way cheaper too ;D
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I got my Shinto from Lee Valley. It came with the handle. I found that the handle was too tall and the rasp kept trying to roll over on it's side and digging in. I sent the handle back for a refund and made a handle like a normal file handle. Works way better now :D And way cheaper too ;D
I had the same issue with mine. I don't use it at the moment, maybe I should try making a new handle.
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Traxx, and those using the Save Edge: Do you have the 14-inch; 17-inch; extra wide "Beast"?
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If you have a shop that deals with farriers they will have a big selection of rasps. Mine has an area that's maybe 2' high and 4-5' long of different farriers rasps
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I got my Shinto from Lee Valley. It came with the handle. I found that the handle was too tall and the rasp kept trying to roll over on it's side and digging in. I sent the handle back for a refund and made a handle like a normal file handle. Works way better now :D And way cheaper too ;D
Got a pic DC? My shinto is the best $20 i ever spent. Would love to improve the handle.
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I used 3 lams. Cut the center one to fit tightly, then glued the sides on and shaped it. It is not removable. I also shrunk a piece of shrink tube on the tip.
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If looking on ebay, what would be the best choices to look for?
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I used 3 lams. Cut the center one to fit tightly, then glued the sides on and shaped it. It is not removable. I also shrunk a piece of shrink tube on the tip.
DC-nice buddy i like that! Is the rubber tip so that you can hold it more comfortably?
Filip T-ebay is where i got mine for $20 shipped
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Makes it hard to make up your mind
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A golf ball with a 1/4" (for farrier rasps) hole drilled 3/4 of the way thru makes a great file handle. Once the the hole is drilled, pound the ball onto the tang. It fits the palm of the perfectly and offers great protection. Always wear eye protection when drilling golf balls........
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And when you drop it it bounces back up to you
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DC-nice buddy i like that! Is the rubber tip so that you can hold it more comfortably?
Yes, I can't use a rasp single handed. I need both hands to get any pressure and without the shrink tube the teeth would cut my hand to ribbons. Those things are sharp.
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Second vote for diamond. Much more effective than my Nicholson.
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Billinthedesert,,,,
Sorry for the late reply,,as i forgot about posting on this thread..I use the 14 inch,for saddle horses and the 17 for draft hooves..I dont care for the extra wide,for hoof work..
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Oh and to Steve...
All my life and using a rasp on hooves for over 30 years..