Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Selfbowman on December 17, 2020, 09:04:30 am
-
If I where to make these knife blade outer limbs would they taper in width? Would they bend or not bend ? Would they have reflex in them? Would the fact that they less mass make up for the reflex? Does the working part of the limb need to be 8 times as wide as where the non bending limb start? That’s enough questions for now. Arvin
-
When you say 'knife blade' outer limbs are you talking about narrow levers like the ones on Badger's flight bows shown in TBBV4 in the Mass Principle chapter?
Mark
-
Don’t know I don’t have that volume. Maybe like the ones on Turkish bows. Skinny and light. I need some pics side and top profile.
-
Check out Dave Mead bows if you want to see knife blade siyahs Arvin. He has a web site on utube if that is what you are referring to. He seems to be able to line every thing up straight,and the siyahs are pretty long, and sharply angled. Akin to mongol bows.With 2 bamboo slats ,and a wood handle, and watching him shoot some through a chrony he seems to get good speeds. You may talking about a regular recurve though. Not sure.
-
The turkish type is just tapered. They are static. The limb doesn't need to be any wider than what you are using currently.
You can google plenty of images of this type of siyah. It's only going to change the weight of your tips, nothing more needs to be done.
-
Years ago David Brunetta built a little bow with knife blade outer limbs, I think Allen case set a record with it. The outers were about 3/4" deep and had holes driller through it for about the last 6" or so. maybe Allen still has the bow.
-
Don’t know I don’t have that volume. Maybe like the ones on Turkish bows. Skinny and light. I need some pics side and top profile.
Arvin,
I will scan the page and email it to you.
Mark
-
Thanks Guys.
-
Arvin, i think this is the one that badger mentioned
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/remember-david-brunetta-t52052.html
(https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/remember-david-brunetta-t52052.html)
-
Arvin, i think this is the one that badger mentioned
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/remember-david-brunetta-t52052.html
(https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/remember-david-brunetta-t52052.html)
David’s bows were something else. I still go back and look at his photo gallery from time to time.
-
Typical dimensions for a Turkish bows tips were around 75mm long from base of curve to nock. 12mm wide/17mm thick. Flat on the back and triangular in cross section. The sides are slightly convex and the base on the belly side around 2-3mm wide.
The nock slot is cut directly into the back. About 5mm deep.
Sorry for the metric dimensions :)
I could take some photos of mine if you want?
-
Don’t know I don’t have that volume. Maybe like the ones on Turkish bows. Skinny and light. I need some pics side and top profile.
You would think a good friend would send me a autographed copy for Christmas. 😁
-
Ok I’ve been saving these belly drops . Looks like I will get some use from them as test limbs. Here we go with different knife blade bows.
-
Please give me the pic Mike. Arvin
-
Is a belly drop wood you split off the belly getting closer to thickness?
-
Pic
-
Top
-
Allan I sawed these off the belly’s of my long bows. Band saw. Most are about 30” long
-
I save those too. Whatcha use em for usually
-
They are real clean .I just can’t burn them. I have made a 3 piece take down from them and a long bow with a handle glued to both limbs. Lots of glue up but like I said they are real clean and straight. I guess when I run out of this great wood i will welcome the glue ups.
-
Pic
-
Top
-
I tape them together after I saw them off. Keep the pairs together.
-
Ah ha so you are making a holmguaard/mollagbet style :) These make great bows, them old boys knew the crack :) Low string angle, higher energy storage, less limb vibration and buckling.....many good things about this design. Good luck with it.
-
I’m watching Arvin. (-P. I always wanted to try that design.
I gotta admit it I don’t really completely understand it. But it looks cool and I have heard is a pretty good performer. Seems like the tiller needs to be spot on with the working area of the limbs.
Seems like any reflex in the narrow levers might make it tricky keeping string on them.
Those pieces you cut off the bellies look better than most of the staves on my rack. I wouldn’t be able to burn them either.
Bjrogg
-
Ok laid out I think with some natural reflex.
-
Pic
-
Ok I have the back laid out and smoothed up. Pretty good line up.
-
Tip overlays. Water buffalo horn
-
Well I got the 50# bow shooting. Two shots . First one 200yds with a big kick out to forty yds or so. Second shot 225 yds. 469 gr. Not bad for straight bow.
-
Pic
-
Now to finish it up. Oh 29oz.
-
See at the ends of your working limbs you could remove the shoulders. Basically make the taper from working/fade/non working longer. The width 'fade' can be concave. It won't affect the bend. The outer limbs can also be made triangluar, narrow on the back, wide on the belly side. Both things to remove limb weight where its not needed. :)
Nice bow :)
-
One more shinyed up.
-
Looks good, you knocked that out fast.
-
Nice bow Arvin.
I have been following with interest your recent explorations of different designs designs. Maybe with a different arrow this bow could have the cast of the others? Can you comment on any set taken when tillering this bow? On your recurved and reflexed examples you lost a little? perhaps this straight bow is a bit more overbuilt?
-
Looks like a Rhodesian goat crossbow Arvin.
Kewl
Shawn~
-
Nice bow Arvin.
I have been following with interest your recent explorations of different designs designs. Maybe with a different arrow this bow could have the cast of the others? Can you comment on any set taken when tillering this bow? On your recurved and reflexed examples you lost a little? perhaps this straight bow is a bit more overbuilt?
Willie I took a bit of set at mid limb . I think bownara was right about the necking down being to sharp if I understood him correctly. Looks like that could have bent just a hair more at that transition.got a 175fps thru crono though. No shock. So ya it’s a good shooter. Thanks for looking guys. Arvin
-
Looks like a Rhodesian goat crossbow Arvin.
Kewl
Shawn~
Shawn I never heard of such a thing. I’d ask for a pic but I guess I’m supposed to just look at my bow and I would know. Arvin
-
Looks good, you knocked that out fast.
I was thinking the same thing. Arvin moves crazy fast on his bows.
Arvin, can you post limb width, lever length and widths/thicknesses for us? I agree with bownarra (I'm sure that's a relief for him... (A)) that your width transitions could be much less abrupt. I also think trapping the levers is a good plan to lose some weight. Just keep the back width the same as it is at the nocks and carry that all the way to the width transition, with a full depth taper to the belly side at the width it is now.
Mark
-
I’m not impressed with this design. I prefer the pyramid a bit better. Arvin
-
I’m not impressed with this design. I prefer the pyramid a bit better. Arvin
I am curious why you have come to this conclusion. I know you have made a wagon load of pyramids, but is this the first molly you have made recently?
If you have a chance to take some full draw pics, it would be interesting to compare the bends of the two
-
You've mastered the pyramid, but not the others. Yet.
-
I’m not impressed with this design. I prefer the pyramid a bit better. Arvin
Maybe do a pyramid with the long, skinny levers for tips.
Mark
-
That's not a pyramid anymore. A blend of the two is a sound idea and a little closer to the original idea though.
-
I’m not impressed with this design. I prefer the pyramid a bit better. Arvin
But these shoot faster than pyramids :)
-
Arvin are you bows built just for speed or would they hold up for hunting too?
-
That's not a pyramid anymore. A blend of the two is a sound idea and a little closer to the original idea though.
Fair enough. I was just thinking of a pyramid style taper into the levers, very much like Badger's bows in TBBV4.
But these shoot faster than pyramids :)
You just had to stir that pot, huh? ;D
Mark
-
That’s killer and very close to what I have in my head...from what I understand and think I’ve learned on here and in books so far...for an ideal zippy hunting recurve. Do you think you could bend those tips into static curves? Or could you have bent them at that thickness prior to narrowing to knife like proportions? In my head, I’m thinking that design with some strong recurves and a long loop string would be a super nice shooting hunting machine. That’s a sweet bow and it’s inspiring.
-
Arvin are you bows built just for speed or would they hold up for hunting too?
Yes I push the limits sometimes. But that rarely pays off for very long. My 50# record bow would hold up to hunting for years I’m sure. It would take more set from being strung for hours . But still hunt fine. Arvin
-
Looks good Arvin, I love the way that style shoots, use to be a guy on here that built a lot of them and I had the pleasure of shooting them at the Classic, they shot pretty dang fast from what I could tell. :)
Pappy
-
I'de hunt it Arvin. Guy up the road has lots of goats to eat his grass. He does not believe in gas lawn mowers I guess. They can wander a bit when hungry. That Rhodesian wonder stick would work awesome on them critters.
Yeah, that's it Arvin. Put some long sweeping reflex hooks on the narrow parts.
I have an Arvin Pyramid bow and I could hunt it anytime. To nice to drag thru my brush infested holler.
Shawn~
-
I like similar design. I think that those corners between syahs and limbs are just excessive weight and slow the bow down? They don't do any work. But they look cool :D. Great bow!
-
The original did not have those shoulders. They were much more refined in the transition.